Bus to Beiteddine (Part Two)

The beauty of the Beiteddine Palace was accentuated by the absence of a horde of tourists. I probably ran into four people while exploring the grounds. There was also the occasional minder making sure we did not enter blocked off areas. My friends were right -- this place is pretty.

Mosaic from the 5th-6th century in the former stable

I was ready to leave after wandering around for about two hours. With every step towards the mid-afternoon, I began the task of plotting my way out of this town. There were a few cars and minivans parked outside the Palace. I could ask for a ride, I thought.

The inner courtyard

Then again, who knew where they were going, and what sort of characters would occupy those vehicles? Let's not forget their impression of this lone traveller who refuses to speak Arabic. Could he be pretending? After all, he looks like one of us. At least that's what my tour guide had said to me a couple of days earlier. I had also been mistaken for an Israeli, although why an Israeli might be wandering around so openly in the streets of Beirut escaped me (Oh, and did I mention being stopped by the police because they wanted to see my passport?).

Outside the stable

I walked back to the same road my taxi driver had left me. There was no sign of traffic. The town itself looked like it was snoozing on a holiday. I took the road we came from and chanced upon a woman (probably in her 50s) waiting by the side of the road. So there is a bus that comes here!

'Allo. Bus, Beirut?'
Arabic.
'Bus,' hand gestures pointing in the direction of traffic, trying as best as I could to explain the roundabout I initially got off at, 'Beirut?'
More Arabic.
'Ok.' I took whatever she said as a positive sign.
'You don't speak Arabic?' she seemed to ask.
'No Arabi', I said apologetically.
'French?'
'La', this time I felt like an idiot, although on the plus side, I had remembered the Arabic word for 'no'.

We watched cars go by every other minute. Their occupants looked at us as they passed. I imagined them thinking 'what an odd pair that is'. Five minutes passed. Another ten. She says something in Arabic and I simply nod. After several checks with her watch, she tells me I'm better off walking to the spot where I got the cab. I thanked her and walked.

The fourth side of the courtyard, looking out to
the hills and valley

A few more cars whizzed by. It was past two in the afternoon and all I had eaten was a hearty breakfast. If there was anything useful the guide book said about this place, it was that you should pack your own lunch because there aren't many food options near the palace. I pulled out the bagel I picked up at a cafe near the hotel and continued on my way. There was time too for a couple of selfies (which didn't turn out as well as I'd have liked) and a video narrating what had transpired so far. Charbel later told me he laughed at the video because I had mis-pronounced Beiteddine (bayt-AH-din instead of bayt-UH-din, which means something else altogether).

Twice in Singapore I had been offered lifts (without my asking) while walking down the hill from work and on the side of an expressway near my army camp. The drivers on this stretch proved to be less friendly -- I tried hitchhiking three or four times. On the bright side, the valleys and hills -- bathed in generous sunlight -- were offering themselves for a visual treat.

On my way to the roundabout

The roundabout was a mere 20-30 minute walk from the palace. As I approached, I took hurried steps, ready to sprint, in case I spotted a bus in the distance. All I got were a few cars stopping to buy fruits or some sort of snack from a lone vendor. At this point too I entertained the thought of hitchhiking. It would make for a good story, something my friends back in Singapore would say was a brave thing to do. But fate had other plans because the bus arrived some minutes after. Out of habit, I checked with the driver if it would go to Beirut. He nodded, and I took a seat in the back.

what I think is the bus stop next to the roundabout

Before I actually got to Beiteddine, I had thought of visiting a village close to the town which is said to have classic Arab architecture (as pointed out by the guide book). I have to admit the thought of possibly missing the bus back to Beirut (they stop running by the late afternoon it seems), and my little misadventure itself, got the better of me. All I wanted, as I surrendered to sleep in the lap of the droning bus, was a nice cold shower. 

Bus to Beiteddine (Part One)

"Ya Allah!" he shouted as his eyeballs returned from the rear-view mirror to their sockets. My gut feeling was right. I may very well have missed my stop. Speaking slowly, I tried to ask the woman in front of me if the bus does indeed go to Beiteddine Palace, as I was told. "Yes," she seemed to say in Arabic. A couple more unintelligible words sprang forth from her mouth, but it was her hand gestures that spoke best. I was relieved. But beyond that, I soon got a feeling that the driver, and the woman in front of me, had already made up their minds about me: the driver through a few more glances in the rear-view mirror, and the woman in front, who was already processing the bits of information she had gleaned when she turned towards me to explain the bus route.

'Why isn't the dimwit speaking Arabic?'

More on that later. But first:

The Beiteddine Palace is a 19th century construction which sits on the edge of a hill. The outer courtyard is flanked by three walls, and the fourth side opens up to glorious views of the valleys and hills. You cross the vast courtyard to the opposite side of the main gate and find, on your left, the royal stables, now home to Byzantine mosaics from the 5th and 6th century AD. Some of them are quite remarkable, considering the effort that has been put into preserving them. The inner courtyard, with its fountain, is on the first floor and gives you access to handsomely furnished rooms previously used by the President.

With details like these in my guide book, I had decided to give Beiteddine Palace a visit. Organised tours bring tourists here, but I had decided to venture out on my own with the Lebanese transport system. My confidence was boosted by the lines I scanned in the book:

..bus to Beiteddine..
..Beirut to Beiteddine..
..Cola transport hub..

I decided it was not going to be difficult. Yet I failed to recognise the signs. Cola itself wasn't what I had imagined a transport hub to look like. It was a collection of minibuses and taxis basking in the spring sun at what would, at best, be described as a large carpark. The signs on the window were all in Arabic, so I enlisted the help of a young girl (an undergraduate studying hospitality management) who eventually hooked me up with the bus I'd need. I was reminded of a similar situation in Kiev when I visited in 2012. There too I was trying to get to a site which is a little outside of the city centre. There too a woman helped me, albeit with rudimentary English.

As we headed south of Beirut and negotiated its temperamental traffic, I was seduced into a short nap, waking up just around the time the bus started its gentle climb up Mount Lebanon. The guide book said the journey would take about two hours, and by this time we had covered 45 minutes. This is also why I sat in the back of the bus observing the towns that passed every now and then, including a little shop selling goods from the Philippines.

By the time the driver exclaimed in horror, we had crossed the 75th-80th minute. As it turned out, this was a loop service, and soon I was reintroduced to the towns we passed, and the roundabout at a three-way junction where I was supposed to have alighted. As the bus pulled away lazily towards Beirut, I stood in the mild heat, looking at the road I had to take. How far is the palace from here, I asked myself.

'Habibi!' I turned around. 'Taxi?'

Serendipity.

The broad smile on his face showed he had already identified the scent of confusion I was emitting. I would have hopped into his taxi even if he were to take me across the border to Syria (OK maybe not). He drove an older model of a Mercedes Benz, one you would rarely see now on the roads in Singapore. The road descended down the side of another hill, passing another palace along the way which offers its rooms to the well-heeled. In about ten minutes, I got out of his cab and paid the fare. It was a short walk down a smaller road to the entrance to the palace. This had better be good, I thought to myself. But as I pulled out the cost of the admission ticket, another question planted itself in my head:

how was I supposed to get out of here?

Why not Lebanon?

Finally, I've checked Lebanon off my list! The desire to go took several flips and backflips in no small part due to the cost of flying and the security situation in the country. I have to admit I was apprehensive as the date to fly drew near, no thanks to the conflict in neighbouring Syria. But my fears were unfounded, and, as some have pointed out, I'm back in Singapore in one piece. In any case, I believe that if something has to happen, it could happen anywhere.

So here, ladies and gentlemen, is what I did during my eight glorious days in this gorgeous country.

On my feet

Urbanista, a cool cafe in Gemmayzeh

Beirut is actually pretty walkable, especially if you quickly learn how to cross the roads. I explored on foot the districts of Gemmayzeh and Mar Mikhael. There are plenty of bars, cafes and eateries in these areas. Some art galleries (e.g. Plan Bey) also dot the long strip of road that stretches from Gouraud to Armenia Streets.

Downtown Beirut: you'll find here Al-Amin, the blue-domed mosque near the Place des Martyrs which has four 65-metre-tall minarets. The mosque also has a beautifully decorated ceiling (below, left). By the way, slain former prime minister Rafic Hariri is buried here. Right next door is the St George Maronite Cathedral. No photos are allowed in here.


A stone's throw away is Place de l'Etoile where you'll find more restaurants, cafes, souvenir shops, and an iconic 1930s clock tower with its four-faced Rolex clock. It was a gift from a Lebanese-Brazilian emigre. The area is also home to the parliament building, two cathedrals and a museum.

A little further north from here is Beirut Souks -- a mega shopping area home to some 200 shops, some of which require substantially deep pockets. There's also a very good bookstore if you're interested (Librairie Antoine).

I tried reaching the nearby Grand Serail, which is a majestic Ottoman building now housing government offices, but was turned away by several police cordons. They've stepped up security in the area, possibly following the assassination of a former minister in December 2013. What you can do, however, is to walk further northwest of Beirut Souks to Zaitunay Bay. Take a stroll along this waterfront promenade, which is home to several yachts, and some high-end cafes and restaurants. Until around 10 years ago, this part of Beirut was quite dead. It's still relatively quiet, which is quite something for a city whose soundtrack is dominated by honking cars.

Continuing west past Zaitunay Bay will eventually take you to the Corniche, a favourite spot for Beirutis. Grab a cup of coffee and people watch, or if you prefer, look out to sea, the shoreline of coastal Lebanon (it's nicer at night when the homes on the hills are lit up), or count the number of planes that glide overhead as they get ready to land at the Rafic Hariri International Airport in the south of Beirut.

In West Beirut, you'll find Raouche, Hamra and Ras Beirut. Raouche is where you'll find Pigeon Rocks, Beirut's famous natural offshore arches. Hamra and Ras Beirut are the university districts of the city and are filled with hotels, bars, cafes, restaurants, and shops. It's the preferred base for most travellers and is also home of the American University of Beirut (right). I managed to get a walking tour of the campus thanks to a Singaporean I met during my trip. There's a museum here which houses archaeological artefacts.

Also, look out for street art all over the city. Some of it is very good.

Organised Tours
I signed up for three day-trips with Nakhal Tours:

A walk through the Cedars

Sidon-Tyre-Maghdouche (in the south)
Cedars-Bcharre-Khozaya (in the north)
Baalbek-Aanjar-Ksara Winery (north/east)

Aanjar, Baalbek, the Qadisha Valley and Tyre are all listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Aanjar has the best preserved Islamic archaeological site in Lebanon, while the temples in Baalbek, have been said to be better maintained than the 'stones' in Rome and Athens.

As for Nakhal, their tour rates cover transportation (pick up and drop off at your hotel), an English speaking guide (they were very good) entrance fees, lunch and taxes.

Tyre's hippodrome, the second
largest in the world

Here's a further endorsement: I accidentally left my wallet in one of the tour buses one evening and after frantic calls to the tour agency, had it delivered to me the same day (the fact that I made a complete fool of myself is something else altogether).

Independent tours

The following are day trips I made on my own from Beirut. These too were day trips (except Byblos and Harissa, which were done together).

Byblos: the medieval port city of Byblos has a charming souk, ruins, and a line of restaurants along the harbour (left). The ruins go back to as far as the 3rd millennium BC and some of what you'll see is from the 12th century, particularly the restored Crusader Castle. There are great views from the city ramparts, especially during sundown. You don't necessarily need a guide here because information boards are present throughout the site for you to make sense of the complex. There's also the nearby Church of St John the Baptist, which marries Arab and Italian designs, sprinkled with remains of Byzantine mosaics.

Harissa: Not only is it home to the Basilica of Our Lady of Lebanon, the mountain town of Harissa also provides spectacular views of Jounieh Bay down below. You can drive up or reach the top by cable car.

How did I get there?: I was lucky to be driven to these sites by a friend I got to know via Couchsurfing.

The remains of the Great Palace at Aanjar

Jeita Grotto: This is one of Lebanon's greatest natural wonders and a huge tourist attraction. Personally, it didn't do very much for me because I'd been to a similar cave in Halong Bay. But I suppose the size of the upper grotto is something else altogether. There's also a lower grotto where you can explore the cave in a short boat ride. Note though that photography is not allowed. I'm guessing it's because flash lights will damage the stalactite and stalagmite crystals. So do the right thing and leave your cameras/phones/devices in lockers at the entrance of each cave.

How did I get there?: The onward journey was made by taxi from Beirut via a contact I had gotten to know. Getting out of Jeita wasn't very difficult either. Taxis usually wait at the main entrance and can take you to the main highway (10USD) where you can hop onto a bus (1,500LL) that takes you to the Doura bus station in Beirut. From Doura, you can hail a servis/taxi for your onward journey. Alternatively, you could get a cab from Jeita to Harissa or some other destination at an agreed price.

Beiteddine: This village is home to the 19th-century Beiteddine (bait-uh-deen) Palace, which sits majestically at the edge of a hill surrounded by terraced gardens and orchards. After you pass the main gate, you will see a three-walled courtyard (above); the fourth side provides great views of the hills and valleys. In the forner stables on the ground floor as you walk into the palace, you'll find a lovely collection of Byzantine mosaics dating from the 5th and 6th centuries AD. A double staircase from the outer courtyard will lead you to the Palace proper. Pack a lunch basket or sandwich when you visit,

Baalbek's famous six columns; the two
people on the lower plinth give you a sense
of the scale of the pillars

How did I get there?: So I thought I should be able to travel to the palace on my own from the Cola transport hub, based on what the guide book said. I was on a bus that would drop me where I needed to go; I didn't know that I'd have to take a taxi from a drop-off point to access the site a couple of kilometres away. Thankfully the driver signalled the stop to me, after I had gone on an extra 45 minute ride with him through some random villages. The return trip to the drop-off point was a 20 minute walk along the road because I could not get any taxi/bus from Beiteddine. If you're thinking of visiting the palace, my suggestion is to get the bus driver to inform you where you have to get off, if indeed you're planning to take the bus. But if you don't fancy getting 'lost' the way I did, arrange for a taxi from Beirut. It will cost you more but at least you'd be assured of the return trip. Note too that there are no buses back to Beirut once the sun goes down.

Before you go...

Zaitunay Bay in downtown Beirut

Safety: Contrary to the bad press from the media, Lebanon is pretty safe. The only time I had trouble was when I took a photograph of a building I wasn't apparently allowed to (a police officer came over and demanded I delete the photographs). Having said that, do keep track of the developments in the country. The Daily Star is a good resource, and you can download the app on your smartphone for updates. Also, avoid South Beirut (a Hezbollah stronghold which has nothing much for tourists anyway) -- although I was told it is generally safe as well.

Currency: Bring in US dollars. Virtually everyone accepts them but you'll receive Lebanese Pounds (LL) as change. Most places would stick to a standard rate so don't worry about making any losses (at the time of my visit, 1USD got you LL1,500).

Getting Around: There are three forms of public transport in Lebanon: buses, 'service' taxis and private taxis. Buses within Beirut should cost around LL1,000. Service taxis mean the driver can stop and pick up other passengers along the way. Here you'll pay LL2,000 (however if you're planning to go from one end of Beirut to the other on servis, be prepared to pay more). Ask before you get in if it's a service or taxi. Private taxis require price negotiation before you hop in, and you'll be the only passenger(s). And oh, the cabs (both service and taxis) can be identified by their red number plates. I add this here because the vehicles come in a wide range of models (from a Toyota to an old school Mercedes Benz).

If you need to call for a cab, try Geryes. They're available 24-hours and offer pretty good rates. These guys do airport transfers, take you around Beirut, and can arrange for rides to other parts of the country as well. These are their contact details:

+9613222600 (mobile)
+9611206000
+9611206666
Email: GeryesTaxi@yahoo.com

Your passport: Carry it with you everywhere you go, especially if you're taking day trips out of Beirut. You pass checkpoints when you enter/leave each governate in the country and the police/military may want to check your papers. And yes, don't take pictures of the personnel or the checkpoints. It's not worth the unnecessary trouble.

Night life: It might come as a surprise but the Lebanese capital is known as one of the coolest cities in the Middle East. Walk the streets of downtown Beirut and you'll more likely than not find Beirutis fancily dressed, more so when they're out partying (did I mention the flashy cars that they make their entrance in?). You won't find a dearth of bars to get your fix -- from holes in the wall in Gemmayzeh/Mar Mikhael, to establishments in downtown Beirut. Of course, dancing is optional because, hey, the point is to pout your lips, see and be seen!

Getting there and away: Beirut is the only point of entry if you're flying in, and here's a short list of airlines that will get you there:

Middle East Airlines (national flag-carrier of Lebanon)
flydubai
Emirates
Qatar Airways
Lufthansa
Etihad Airways
Egypt Air
Air France
British Airways

Getting in by land is pretty much impossible because of the conflict in Syria. And don't even think about crossing the border from Israel. Speaking of which, if there's any indication that you've visited Israel, you'll be denied entry into Lebanon. Same goes for some other Middle East countries so do your homework before you embark on your journey.

Visa: Most foreigners can get visa on arrival at the airport. If you're Singaporean, just show up with your passport.

Read!
On the politics of Lebanon and the region, Beware of Small States by David Hirst seemed to me a good resource.
Lebanese/Arab authors:
Kahlil Gibran's The Prophet (the tour to the Cedars/Bcharre/Khozaya takes you to his museum)
Amin Maalouf (Samarkand is my favourite so far)
Elias Khoury (I tried Yalo but gave up)
Rabih Alameddine (An Unnecessary Woman)
Anthony Shadid's House of Stone: A Memoir of Home, Family, and a Lost Middle East

Watch
Incendies (2010)
Where Do We Go Now? (2011)

If you need more info, don't hesitate to ask. For more of my images from Lebanon, I'm on instagram: @kevusingh

To Belgrade!

Parliament Building in Belgrade

Serbia has in recent decades received bad publicity because of the Yugoslav wars of the 1990s, a legacy that continues to shape much of the politics of the region. But away from politics, the capital Belgrade has earned itself a reputation of a different kind -- it has emerged as Europe's top partying destination. Unfortunately, I'm not much of a party animal so I can't suggest which clubs or parties to attend. What I can do, though, is to suggest what you should see/do in this city. Most of the sites listed here are situated in Old Belgrade.

View of the Sava from Kalemegdan

Kalemegdan Fortress: Belgrade's central park offers beautiful views of the city and the point where the Sava and Danube rivers meet. The former military fortification is still dotted with fortress walls and an observatory. Here too you will find the statue of The Victor, one of Belgrade's symbols. One trinket seller told me this statue by the famous Ivan Mestrovic has the best butt in Belgrade. You decide. 

Skadarlija: This is Belgrade's main vintage quarter and is filled with cafes and restaurants. It seems this area (right) got its bohemian status in the last few decades of the 19th century, especially after 1901, when prominent writers and art practitioners moved into Skadarlija's inns after their previous residence was demolished. The street is paved in cobblestone so do yourself a favour and wear comfortable shoes. The same trinket lady (who commented on The Victor's butt) actually knows Novak Djokovic (a professional Serbian tennis player) and his family. The conversation about Djokovic came up when I remarked that I was initially surprised his magnets were being sold at her stall (I had forgotten for a moment that he's Serbian). 

exhibit at Zepter
Museum

Knez Mihailova Street: Belgrade's main pedestrian street which has plenty of shops and cafes. This is also the home of the Zepter Museum, which exhibits modern/contemporary art, and the Belgrade City Library. Closer to the entrance of the Kalemegdan Fortress used to be the headquarters of OTPOR!, the civil youth movement that is credited for the downfall of Slobodan Milosevic government in the year 2000.

graffiti

Republic Square: The city's main meeting point. Around here you'll find the equestrian statue of Prince Mihailo Obrenovic, the National Museum and the National Theatre. At the time of my visit, there was an open exhibition detailing the plight of Serbs in Kosovo. 

Tito's Mausoleum and the Museum of the History of Yugoslavia: Here you'll find the grave of Josep Tito, the ex-Yugoslav President. The Museum houses artifacts from Yugoslavia and around the world which were gifted to Tito in his years as president. 

Nikola Tesla Museum: For those of you interested in physics, this museum is a must-do. For the uninitiated, Tesla made significant contributions to the development of electrical engineering. Believe it or not, he even laid the groundwork for today's mobile communications. Little wonder then that the man is held in very high regard among Serbs. At the time of my visit, I had missed the English-language tour so do drop by early in the day or call ahead to find out what time it would be conducted. Otherwise, you could walk around on your own to see Tesla's personal effects and models of his inventions. Most exhibits also have some explanation in English.  

the view from my hostel's
balcony

St Sava Cathedral (left): This is Serbia's largest Orthodox Temple and was built in several phases from 1935. It is said that the temple is visible from any corner of Belgrade because it sits on a hill. I couldn't see it from my hostel though.

Other notable buildings: There are several you should look out for. One is Hotel Moskva (left), built in the Art Nouveau style in 1906. There's also the bombed out Ministry of Defence (right), which was shelled during the NATO bombing in 1999. At one point, the government had talked about demolishing the structure due to safety concerns. But the city's residents protested, saying it should stand as a reminder of the country's past. The last I heard though is that the area is being cleared for development. There's also the Palace of Serbia (below right) in Novi Beograd. It used to be the seat of the Federal Executive Council (Government) of Yugoslavia. Foreign heads of state are apparently received here. It seems there are rooms decorated in the style peculiar to virtually every country in the world.

Novi Beograd (New Belgrade): This area is on the other side of the Sava and is a planned city built in 1947. A lot of businesses have moved here due to more modern infrastructure and larger available space. Also in Novi Beograd is the little town of Zemun. It was separate from Belgrade up until the early 1930s when developments in New Belgrade brought the two together. Zemun has an old town and some restaurants and cafes for you to while away an afternoon/evening.

Square in Zemun

Getting In

I got into Belgrade by bus from Zagreb -- this took about 7 hours. There are also connections to some cities in Western Europe. 

By air, you can fly in with carriers such as Qatar Airways, Lufthansa, Austrian, Turkish Airlines and Aeroflot. 

By train, there are connections to Budapest (Hungary), Prague (Czech Republic), Moscow (Russia), Kiev (Ukraine), Sofia (Bulgaria), Thessaloniki (Greece) and Zagreb (Croatia).

When to go

I went in late March and it snowed (yes, it's climate change). High season is between June and September.

How many days

I spent almost 3 full days in the city mostly on foot. I have to add that I skipped the major museums so if you want to do those, an additional day would help. And if clubbing is your thing as well, 5 days seems like a decent bet.

Currency

Serbian dinar. You should be able to get some from money changers around the city.

Read! 

With Their Backs to the World: Portraits from Serbia by Asne Seierstad

A superiority complex

There's a sense among the mainland Chinese that some Singaporean Chinese look down on them. When Misha said this to me during our walk along Shanghai's Bund, I could not bring myself to lie. In fact, a lot of my Chinese friends, more than the non-Chinese ones, were surprised I'd bought tickets to Shanghai. Some said they would never visit China.

'Why not go to Taiwan? It's better and the people are nicer.'
'Have you been to Shanghai?'
'No.'
'Some other part of China?'
'No.'

There's nothing new about people being presumptuous about cities and countries without them ever having been there. I faced the same questions and looks of horror when I announced plans to go to Bosnia-Hercegovina and Romania. But with China it seemed to me a different story altogether. You see, the Chinese Singaporean has his/her roots in some corner of China -- that's where their grandparents or those further back in the family tree came from. Yet, so many of them today have a problem with the motherland. It's the same with Singaporean Indians I suppose, but from what I gather, the issue is more pronounced in the Chinese community.

Why? A lot of the complaints centre around the PRCs (as mainland Chinese are referred to in Singapore) being uncultured and loud. This perception stems not necessarily from having been to China, but having observed the behaviour of PRCs living and working in Singapore. Be prepared to go deaf in China, some people warned me. I have to admit I did share some of those concerns. Don't get me wrong -- I don't have a problem with loud PRCs, my problem is with loud people, regardless of their ethnic background. The bottomline is, you can't stereotype a whole group of people because of the actions of a few.

This belief was reinforced in Shanghai as I observed people in the trains. Not everyone was talking loudly. Those who did looked visibly different from the city dwellers. Meaning to say, those who displayed such unpleasant behaviour appeared to be from the rural parts of the country. Then again, compartmentalising them would be myopic as well. Even in Singapore, there are people who speak in only two volumes -- loud and louder. But Singapore is largely urbanised to begin with, so where did these people come from?

Having said that, not all Singaporean Chinese detest China. I have friends who are in awe of its history, its wealth of poetry, its art, its landscape. So many of them have moved to China for work or study. They have expressed disappointment that the country is misunderstood. The politics of the country is another matter of course, but by and large, these Singaporeans have had wonderful experiences in China's cities and even their ancestral hometowns where they've made trips to.

But what about me, would I visit China again? Yes. I've always been fascinated with the country, specifically the western, 'restive' region of Xinjiang. Beijing too is a city I'd love to wander around at some point. Some people I know would shudder at the thought, but I'm not here to change their minds. I'm more interested in expanding my horizon further, to what that country has to offer. And if push comes to shove, I'd ask the Singaporean Chinese, who dislikes China, one simple question: don't you dig your nose too?

Shanghai

Shanghai: a city once called the Paris of the East, and now the showpiece of an economically thriving China. I went without expectations and was pleased to have come away with a relatively good experience. The city itself boasts more skyscrapers than notable sights unlike other major cities. Having said that, Shanghai does have some museums to its name though I was in no mood for them. So here's my list of things you could do in the city, regardless of whether museums tickle your fancy.

A walk down Nanjing Road

The length of Nanjing Road is quite easily the commercial heart of the city. East Nanjing Road (left) is where the older shopping centres are located, including the first department store which opened in the 1920s. Now it becomes an orgy of neon lights at night and has a tacky little tourist train that plies a section of the stretch for a few yuan (it's better to just stick to walking).

High-end brands line the strip that is West Nanjing Road, together with several five-star hotels, restaurants and prime office buildings. You will also find the Jing'an Temple (left) here. The Buddhist temple has a history of over 700 years and is surrounded by high-rise modern buildings.

Statue at People's Park

The two sides of Nanjing Road meet at People's Square, a large public square in the Huangpu district. There's a lovely park here and the Shanghai Art Museum. Do beware of people coming up to you and asking if you'd like to attend traditional tea ceremonies. These are nothing but extortionate in nature and often your companions start off by saying they'd like to talk to you a while longer to practice their English or show you around. I was asked to take a photo for a trio before they launched into a conversation which steered towards whether I'd be interested to join them at one of these ceremonies.

Shanghai Propaganda Poster Centre

This gallery is in the basement of a residential block at Hua Shan Road. It displays anti-US, pro-communist posters from the 1950s through the 1970s. There's a little shop where you can buy postcards and even original posters. At the main gate of 868 Hua Shan Road, inform the guard you're looking for the Poster Centre and he will hand you a card with directions to the block where the gallery is located.

The Bund

A foggy morning at The Bund

This waterfront area is one of the most famous tourist destinations in Shanghai and is home to dozens of historical buildings of various architectural styles. They were once banks, trading houses and consulates. Some have very colourful histories and a number of them have been converted into restaurants and designer shops. The best times to come here are during sunrise when you'll find people flying kites, jogging, practicing taiji, or simply capturing the sun as it comes up. After sundown, it's a horde of people you'll see here, out for a stroll or posing with the Pudong skyline (above left) behind them. The closest metro station is East Nanjing Road, about a five minute walk away.

Cafe hop

Contrary to what you may think, Shanghai is dotted with many cool cafes, some of which have quite a fan following. My personal favourite is Ginger by the Park at 91 Xingguo Road in the Xuhui district. This one's non-smoking, a huge plus point in itself.

There's also Citizen Cafe at Jinxian Road (in the French Concession), which is apparently popular with the French expat community. A couple of streets away at Changle Road is Garden Books where you can combine your need for a caffeine fix with your literary pursuits. I found the books a little overpriced though.

Across the city you will also find branches of 85C Cafe, a Taiwanese chain which has a very affordable selection of breads, buns and coffees. I personally loved their garlic bread (very random, I know).

Yuyuan Gardens and the Old City

The Gardens (above left and right) are located in the northeast of the Old City and was built during the Ming Dynasty (1366-1644 AD). The pavilions and ponds provide a respite from the bustle of the city.

An alley in the Old City

Once you're done here, poke your nose through the small lanes that are part of the Old City. They are grey, drab, and a world away from the skyscrapers that hover in the background. It's not surprising then that this area is fast disappearing (at the time of my visit, there were two plots of land being drilled and hammered to become modern edifices).

M50

Mural at M50

50 Moganshan Road (or M50 as it is better known) is a contemporary art district home to several galleries and studios belonging to more than a hundred artists. M50 used to be an industrial area and took on its current form in 2000 by a local artist who was initially attracted by the cheap rent of the disused space. If your pockets are deep enough, you could consider buying some of the works.

The only drawback about this area is its relative inaccessibility -- that is, if you're not one who's comfortable with walking at least 10 minutes to get somewhere. The closest metro station is Shanghai Railway Station. Take Exit 5 towards Minli Road/Tianmu West Road. At the junction of these two roads, make a right and walk in the direction of traffic till you cross a bridge over the Suzhou Creek. Then take the stairs down and turn right into the road that runs along the creek. Moganshan Road is right at the end.

Tianzifang

Outside a cafe in Tianzifang

This arts and crafts enclave in the French Concession developed from a renovated residential area and its alleys are packed with art/photography galleries, shops, cafes and restaurants. A similar district is Xintiandi, in a vicinity to the north; but what sets Tianzifang (left) apart is its success in preserving its residential feel.


Beyond Shanghai

Confucius Temple in Nanjing

The beauty of a day trip from Shanghai is that several destinations are easily accessible by high-speed trains. You could consider places such as Hangzhou or Nanjing (both are up to an hour away). My friend and I went to Nanjing, until quite recently the capital of China. There are many historical sites here for you to while away your time, including the Nanjing Massacre Memorial (right) and the Ming tombs which are on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

High-speed rail at Shanghai's Hongqiao
Railway Station

Duration of Stay

Including the day trip to Nanjing, I spent full four days in Shanghai. Most of my exploration was done on foot at a leisurely pace so if you prefer to zip around in the metro, you could probably end up doing/seeing more.

To/from the airport

Hop onto Line 2 which takes you directly to East Nanjing Road and People's Square. The journey takes about 60-75 minutes though. Alternatively, you could hover in the air for a few minutes with the magnetic levitation or Maglev train which zips you to Longyang Road metro station (where you can transfer to Lines 2, 7 and 16) in eight minutes -- quite the time-saver. A one-way ticket costs 50 yuan. If you have a same-day air ticket, 10 yuan will be shaved off your fare.

Getting around

Shanghai is quite pedestrian-friendly so do exploit the opportunity to see more on foot. Otherwise, the city is very well-connected by the metro system with over 10 lines negotiating the underground space. Base fares are at 3 yuan for trips under 6 kilometres, then 1 yuan for each additional 10 kilometres.

To Wasen

The platform was filled with young revellers in traditional garb, accessorised with beer bottles and cigarette packs. There was a lot of chatter, some boisterous singing. I watched them, intrigued. It was relatively chilly, but I suppose the thrill and excitement of going to VolkFest (a beer festival and travelling carnival) at Canstatter Wasen, Stuttgart, was keeping everyone sufficiently warm. Other commuters not making a beeline for the event looked indifferent at best, and apprehensive at worst.

The train quickly filled to the brim with these youngsters heading for the next station about 5 minutes away. It appeared as if the train had been chartered for them and it took a few minutes of boarding before the doors finally closed. From my little corner next to the door at the other end of the train, I watched bodies pressed gleefully against one another: boys in checked shirts and berms, girls in dresses that generously displayed their ample bosoms. Boys sat gingerly on each others' thighs, while the girls looked a little more comfortable in their boyfriends' (at least I assumed them to be) laps. A couple standing right in front of me couldn't stop sticking their tongues down each others' throats as their friends engaged in random banter.

The train emerged from underground and the site of the festival came into full view. One of the girls standing next to me squealed with delight at the sight of a huge ferris wheel and started bobbing on her feet. A guy next to her put his arm around her from the back and smiled. The kissers stopped momentarily and cheered together with the others.

The station arrived and calls rose for the doors to open. Then they started to spill out, as if the train could not bear their load anymore. Some boys started singing again, the girls chatted and laughed. Within a minute or two the train's interior made itself conspicuous again. There was space, there was an uncomfortable silence, accustomed as the ears had become to a cacophony of voices.

I remained behind, together with a few passengers around me. We were accompanied by the gentle roar of the carriage being pulled along to the next stop, together with the bottles rolling and clinking as they met on the train floor.