Day trip: San Miguel de Allende

What's special about San Miguel de Allende

Parroquia de San Miguel
Arcangel's facade

Mexicans will tell you it's a "pueblo magico", a magical city/town. There are several across the country, and they're recognised for their cultural, historical or natural richness. And San Miguel de Allende doesn't disappoint. This colonial town has pretty churches, museums, and art galleries. It's also home to a Starbucks coffee joint! 

courtyard at Biblioteca Publica
Municipal Ignacio Ramirez

Brief history
San Miguel de Allende played a vital role in the war of independence from Spain, and its present name derives from Ignacio Allende, a hero of the independence movement. The centre of town retains its old world charm and facade partly due to the government's move to designate it a national monument in 1926 (it's also a UNESCO World Heritage Site). San Miguel de Allende is also home to many art colonies which were developed in the 1950s. That aside, don't be surprised if you see many Americans here. A lot of them have lived here for some time, drawn by the art colonies or while escaping a polio scare in the US after the Second World War. 

See/do

- Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel, one of the town's main draws, its claim to fame is the pink granite used for its construction

dome of the church next to Centro
Cultural Ignacio Ramirez El Nigromante

- one of the town's many art institutes, such as Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramirez El Nigromante 

- El Mirador, for the panorama

- Museo Casa Ignacio Allende, home of the independence hero

Getting around

Walk. It's the best way to explore this little gem. :)

Getting there and away

I came across one guide (or was it Wikitravel?) which claimed San Miguel de Allende is quite challenging to reach by bus. Nothing could be further from the truth. There are regular buses from Guanajuato and connections to Mexico City and other nearby cities as well. I did my trip from Guanajuato (about 1-1.5 hours), which is probably the easiest option. 

view from the Mirador

From the bus terminal to the city centre: 

courtyard at Starbucks

Right outside the main bus terminal (Omnibus de Mexico, along Calzada de la Estacion), a minibus (ruta 1) takes you to the historic centre and drops you off outside the Pero Neri church. This is the same spot where you'll get ruta 1 to return to the bus terminal. Give it at least 30-40 minutes on the way back though. While the buses move slowly because of the cobbled streets, they may (as the one I was on did) make a long pause at one of the bus stops. I even contemplated getting off to walk the rest of the way. Note too that this minibus doesn't take you into the bus terminal per se. Sit on the left side of the bus if you can, and keep a look out for the bus terminal when you're back on Calzada de la Estacion. 

To the Blue Mountains -- with public transport!

Planning a trip to the Blue Mountains from Sydney, but don't have a set of wheels (or can't drive)? Personally, I was in two minds about making a visit because of the perceived inconvenience. But despite what most people tell you, accessing this site is very easy by public transport (they're just being lazy). But first, a little background.

The Blue Mountains is a mountainous range in New South Wales, Australia. It's close to Sydney, and borders its metropolitan area. According to Wikipedia (and based on what I saw), the Mountains are a dissected plateau carved in sandstock bedrock. They are now a series of ridge lines separated by gorges up to 760 metres deep. One of the region's best-known attractions is The Three Sisters rock formation (left). There's an Aboriginal story behind it which I cannot remember right now. The Blue Mountains is not a particularly high mountain range, but that hasn't stopped countless from making trips here for its majestic scenery. It helps that the region was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the year 2000.


What to see/do

The most popular attraction is Echo Point in the town of Katoomba, a major lookout with amazing views of the Three Sisters and Jamison Valley. It's a good point to start your visit, and there are information panels/displays about the surrounding environment. From here you can set off on one of many, many treks to while away the hours (and days) and check out what nature has to offer you in these parts -- including some gorgeous waterfalls. If you feel you're not fit enough, try the short walks of about a kilometre or so. The more adventurous can of course set off on multi-day treks. Mountain biking opportunities also abound.

In the mountains you'll also find a number of towns including:

Katoomba (right) -- the largest of the lot and main jump-off point for the Mountains. You can shop and fill your tummies in this area known for its hippie and artsy people.
Leura -- this one's right next to Katoomba and more quaint


So how do I get there?

Hop onto the Blue Mountains Line at Sydney's Central Station and get off at Katoomba. The trip should take you around 2 hours. When you exit the station, there's an office for a hop on/hop off service to the mountains. It makes 29 stops across Katoomba and Leura, giving you the flexibility to explore the area comfortably.

the road from Katoomba down to Echo Point;
yes, it's right at the end

Or you could do what I did -- walk from Katoomba station down to Echo Point (the lookout). It's a relatively easy 2-kilometre walk if the weather is pleasant (I walked back to Katoomba after my trek too). If you do intend to walk the whole way, get a map from the hop on/hop off office. It would help a great deal, especially if you don't trust your sense of direction. Or just ask around.

How much time to spend here?

It really depends on you. The Blue Mountains can be done as an easy day trip from Sydney, but keep in mind that the journey to and fro takes about 2 hours each. At the Mountains itself, I trekked for about 3-4 hours before deciding I'd had enough. I was told Sydneysiders do weekend trips here to mountain bike, trek or simply camp out (accommodation options are available in the area of course). So if you want to avoid the crowds, try planning your trip during the week.

Climate

Do note that the temperatures up here can be up to 10 degrees lower than on the coast during the day, and much lower at night, so bringing a jacket along isn't being overly cautious. Oh yes, it does snow sometimes in winter. During my trip there was a bit of a drizzle but it did little to dampen the experience.

Why not Lebanon?

Finally, I've checked Lebanon off my list! The desire to go took several flips and backflips in no small part due to the cost of flying and the security situation in the country. I have to admit I was apprehensive as the date to fly drew near, no thanks to the conflict in neighbouring Syria. But my fears were unfounded, and, as some have pointed out, I'm back in Singapore in one piece. In any case, I believe that if something has to happen, it could happen anywhere.

So here, ladies and gentlemen, is what I did during my eight glorious days in this gorgeous country.

On my feet

Urbanista, a cool cafe in Gemmayzeh

Beirut is actually pretty walkable, especially if you quickly learn how to cross the roads. I explored on foot the districts of Gemmayzeh and Mar Mikhael. There are plenty of bars, cafes and eateries in these areas. Some art galleries (e.g. Plan Bey) also dot the long strip of road that stretches from Gouraud to Armenia Streets.

Downtown Beirut: you'll find here Al-Amin, the blue-domed mosque near the Place des Martyrs which has four 65-metre-tall minarets. The mosque also has a beautifully decorated ceiling (below, left). By the way, slain former prime minister Rafic Hariri is buried here. Right next door is the St George Maronite Cathedral. No photos are allowed in here.


A stone's throw away is Place de l'Etoile where you'll find more restaurants, cafes, souvenir shops, and an iconic 1930s clock tower with its four-faced Rolex clock. It was a gift from a Lebanese-Brazilian emigre. The area is also home to the parliament building, two cathedrals and a museum.

A little further north from here is Beirut Souks -- a mega shopping area home to some 200 shops, some of which require substantially deep pockets. There's also a very good bookstore if you're interested (Librairie Antoine).

I tried reaching the nearby Grand Serail, which is a majestic Ottoman building now housing government offices, but was turned away by several police cordons. They've stepped up security in the area, possibly following the assassination of a former minister in December 2013. What you can do, however, is to walk further northwest of Beirut Souks to Zaitunay Bay. Take a stroll along this waterfront promenade, which is home to several yachts, and some high-end cafes and restaurants. Until around 10 years ago, this part of Beirut was quite dead. It's still relatively quiet, which is quite something for a city whose soundtrack is dominated by honking cars.

Continuing west past Zaitunay Bay will eventually take you to the Corniche, a favourite spot for Beirutis. Grab a cup of coffee and people watch, or if you prefer, look out to sea, the shoreline of coastal Lebanon (it's nicer at night when the homes on the hills are lit up), or count the number of planes that glide overhead as they get ready to land at the Rafic Hariri International Airport in the south of Beirut.

In West Beirut, you'll find Raouche, Hamra and Ras Beirut. Raouche is where you'll find Pigeon Rocks, Beirut's famous natural offshore arches. Hamra and Ras Beirut are the university districts of the city and are filled with hotels, bars, cafes, restaurants, and shops. It's the preferred base for most travellers and is also home of the American University of Beirut (right). I managed to get a walking tour of the campus thanks to a Singaporean I met during my trip. There's a museum here which houses archaeological artefacts.

Also, look out for street art all over the city. Some of it is very good.

Organised Tours
I signed up for three day-trips with Nakhal Tours:

A walk through the Cedars

Sidon-Tyre-Maghdouche (in the south)
Cedars-Bcharre-Khozaya (in the north)
Baalbek-Aanjar-Ksara Winery (north/east)

Aanjar, Baalbek, the Qadisha Valley and Tyre are all listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Aanjar has the best preserved Islamic archaeological site in Lebanon, while the temples in Baalbek, have been said to be better maintained than the 'stones' in Rome and Athens.

As for Nakhal, their tour rates cover transportation (pick up and drop off at your hotel), an English speaking guide (they were very good) entrance fees, lunch and taxes.

Tyre's hippodrome, the second
largest in the world

Here's a further endorsement: I accidentally left my wallet in one of the tour buses one evening and after frantic calls to the tour agency, had it delivered to me the same day (the fact that I made a complete fool of myself is something else altogether).

Independent tours

The following are day trips I made on my own from Beirut. These too were day trips (except Byblos and Harissa, which were done together).

Byblos: the medieval port city of Byblos has a charming souk, ruins, and a line of restaurants along the harbour (left). The ruins go back to as far as the 3rd millennium BC and some of what you'll see is from the 12th century, particularly the restored Crusader Castle. There are great views from the city ramparts, especially during sundown. You don't necessarily need a guide here because information boards are present throughout the site for you to make sense of the complex. There's also the nearby Church of St John the Baptist, which marries Arab and Italian designs, sprinkled with remains of Byzantine mosaics.

Harissa: Not only is it home to the Basilica of Our Lady of Lebanon, the mountain town of Harissa also provides spectacular views of Jounieh Bay down below. You can drive up or reach the top by cable car.

How did I get there?: I was lucky to be driven to these sites by a friend I got to know via Couchsurfing.

The remains of the Great Palace at Aanjar

Jeita Grotto: This is one of Lebanon's greatest natural wonders and a huge tourist attraction. Personally, it didn't do very much for me because I'd been to a similar cave in Halong Bay. But I suppose the size of the upper grotto is something else altogether. There's also a lower grotto where you can explore the cave in a short boat ride. Note though that photography is not allowed. I'm guessing it's because flash lights will damage the stalactite and stalagmite crystals. So do the right thing and leave your cameras/phones/devices in lockers at the entrance of each cave.

How did I get there?: The onward journey was made by taxi from Beirut via a contact I had gotten to know. Getting out of Jeita wasn't very difficult either. Taxis usually wait at the main entrance and can take you to the main highway (10USD) where you can hop onto a bus (1,500LL) that takes you to the Doura bus station in Beirut. From Doura, you can hail a servis/taxi for your onward journey. Alternatively, you could get a cab from Jeita to Harissa or some other destination at an agreed price.

Beiteddine: This village is home to the 19th-century Beiteddine (bait-uh-deen) Palace, which sits majestically at the edge of a hill surrounded by terraced gardens and orchards. After you pass the main gate, you will see a three-walled courtyard (above); the fourth side provides great views of the hills and valleys. In the forner stables on the ground floor as you walk into the palace, you'll find a lovely collection of Byzantine mosaics dating from the 5th and 6th centuries AD. A double staircase from the outer courtyard will lead you to the Palace proper. Pack a lunch basket or sandwich when you visit,

Baalbek's famous six columns; the two
people on the lower plinth give you a sense
of the scale of the pillars

How did I get there?: So I thought I should be able to travel to the palace on my own from the Cola transport hub, based on what the guide book said. I was on a bus that would drop me where I needed to go; I didn't know that I'd have to take a taxi from a drop-off point to access the site a couple of kilometres away. Thankfully the driver signalled the stop to me, after I had gone on an extra 45 minute ride with him through some random villages. The return trip to the drop-off point was a 20 minute walk along the road because I could not get any taxi/bus from Beiteddine. If you're thinking of visiting the palace, my suggestion is to get the bus driver to inform you where you have to get off, if indeed you're planning to take the bus. But if you don't fancy getting 'lost' the way I did, arrange for a taxi from Beirut. It will cost you more but at least you'd be assured of the return trip. Note too that there are no buses back to Beirut once the sun goes down.

Before you go...

Zaitunay Bay in downtown Beirut

Safety: Contrary to the bad press from the media, Lebanon is pretty safe. The only time I had trouble was when I took a photograph of a building I wasn't apparently allowed to (a police officer came over and demanded I delete the photographs). Having said that, do keep track of the developments in the country. The Daily Star is a good resource, and you can download the app on your smartphone for updates. Also, avoid South Beirut (a Hezbollah stronghold which has nothing much for tourists anyway) -- although I was told it is generally safe as well.

Currency: Bring in US dollars. Virtually everyone accepts them but you'll receive Lebanese Pounds (LL) as change. Most places would stick to a standard rate so don't worry about making any losses (at the time of my visit, 1USD got you LL1,500).

Getting Around: There are three forms of public transport in Lebanon: buses, 'service' taxis and private taxis. Buses within Beirut should cost around LL1,000. Service taxis mean the driver can stop and pick up other passengers along the way. Here you'll pay LL2,000 (however if you're planning to go from one end of Beirut to the other on servis, be prepared to pay more). Ask before you get in if it's a service or taxi. Private taxis require price negotiation before you hop in, and you'll be the only passenger(s). And oh, the cabs (both service and taxis) can be identified by their red number plates. I add this here because the vehicles come in a wide range of models (from a Toyota to an old school Mercedes Benz).

If you need to call for a cab, try Geryes. They're available 24-hours and offer pretty good rates. These guys do airport transfers, take you around Beirut, and can arrange for rides to other parts of the country as well. These are their contact details:

+9613222600 (mobile)
+9611206000
+9611206666
Email: GeryesTaxi@yahoo.com

Your passport: Carry it with you everywhere you go, especially if you're taking day trips out of Beirut. You pass checkpoints when you enter/leave each governate in the country and the police/military may want to check your papers. And yes, don't take pictures of the personnel or the checkpoints. It's not worth the unnecessary trouble.

Night life: It might come as a surprise but the Lebanese capital is known as one of the coolest cities in the Middle East. Walk the streets of downtown Beirut and you'll more likely than not find Beirutis fancily dressed, more so when they're out partying (did I mention the flashy cars that they make their entrance in?). You won't find a dearth of bars to get your fix -- from holes in the wall in Gemmayzeh/Mar Mikhael, to establishments in downtown Beirut. Of course, dancing is optional because, hey, the point is to pout your lips, see and be seen!

Getting there and away: Beirut is the only point of entry if you're flying in, and here's a short list of airlines that will get you there:

Middle East Airlines (national flag-carrier of Lebanon)
flydubai
Emirates
Qatar Airways
Lufthansa
Etihad Airways
Egypt Air
Air France
British Airways

Getting in by land is pretty much impossible because of the conflict in Syria. And don't even think about crossing the border from Israel. Speaking of which, if there's any indication that you've visited Israel, you'll be denied entry into Lebanon. Same goes for some other Middle East countries so do your homework before you embark on your journey.

Visa: Most foreigners can get visa on arrival at the airport. If you're Singaporean, just show up with your passport.

Read!
On the politics of Lebanon and the region, Beware of Small States by David Hirst seemed to me a good resource.
Lebanese/Arab authors:
Kahlil Gibran's The Prophet (the tour to the Cedars/Bcharre/Khozaya takes you to his museum)
Amin Maalouf (Samarkand is my favourite so far)
Elias Khoury (I tried Yalo but gave up)
Rabih Alameddine (An Unnecessary Woman)
Anthony Shadid's House of Stone: A Memoir of Home, Family, and a Lost Middle East

Watch
Incendies (2010)
Where Do We Go Now? (2011)

If you need more info, don't hesitate to ask. For more of my images from Lebanon, I'm on instagram: @kevusingh

In Pictures: Mumbai

Formerly (and still) known as Bombay.

Gateway of India

Capital city of Maharashtra.
A population bursting at its seams.
My images (I might add that I fell sick during the trip so the photographs here are only a very tiny slice of what Mumbai has to offer a visitor).


Dhobi Ghat at Mahalaxmi (below left). I doubt visitors are allowed within the grounds so one has to see it from a bridge across the railway tracks near the Mahalaxmi train station.
On the right is Mount Mary Church in Bandra. It was closed at the time of my visit.





The causeway that leads to Haji Ali Dargah (left), and a glimpse of the shrine from Lala LajpatRai Marg (right).



Games of cricket at the Oval Maidan. The High Court and Rajabai Clock Tower are in the background in the 'Gothic section'.
On the right is a block of apartments in the 'Art Deco district', which also faces the Oval Maidan. Mumbai is second only to Miami in the number of Art Deco buildings. Some famous structures in this style include the Eros cinema.


The Watson (left). I was told this was the hotel that industrialist J N Tata was denied entry on account of being 'a native'. He later built the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower as a form of protest. At the time of my visit (2011), there were plans to restore this building.

Bandra-Worli Sea Link (right). It's officially known as Rajiv Gandhi Sea Link. It links Bandra in the Western Suburbs with Worli in South Mumbai. The bridge is a part of the proposed Western Freeway that will link the Western Suburbs to Nariman Point in Mumbai's main business district.


Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST), or Victoria Terminus (VT), a UNESCO World Heritage Site (bottom left). It is both historic and the country's busiest railway station. 

Recommended duration of stay
I'd give it 4-5 days (in that time you could include a trip to Elephanta Island, which is home to the Elephanta Caves -- another UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Get in/out
Mumbai has one of India's busiest airports and one of the main international gateways to the country. Many international airlines such as British Airways, Malaysia Airlines, Lufthansa, Qantas and Singapore Airlines fly into the city. You can also reach the city with low-cost carriers such as Air Asia and Indigo.

Trains arrive in Mumbai from all over the country.

Read!
A Fine Balance by Rohinton Mistry (highly recommended)
Maximum City by Suketu Mehta (highly recommended)
Black Friday: The True Story of the Bombay Bomb Blasts by S Hussain Zaidi


 

In Pictures: Delhi

Delhi. or Dilli as I like to call it.
Established since around the 6th century BC.

Invaded, ransacked, rebuilt.

Old, new, newer.

These are some pictures from the city.

the sun sets against Humayun's tomb (right), a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Below left is the New Delhi Railway Station. There are connections from here to virtually everywhere in India.

Birla Mandir, a Hindu temple

(below right).

Stores such as Nike and Pepe Jeans form the list of shops in the inner circle of Connaught Place (left), one of the oldest commercial spaces in Delhi. There's a kebab place at the first radial road (it's close to the PVR Cinema) called Nizam's.

Fast, finger-licking good, and filling.

On the left is another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Qutb Minar. Construction began in the late 12th century and it was completed sometime in the 13th century. It seems some Hindu and Jain temples were destroyed and their material reused for the building of the tower and its accompanying mosque. Above right is the Delhi metro which has made commuting around the city (and to the airport) a breeze. Just don't expect to get a seat though.

The structure bathed in light on the right is India Gate, which is a memorial to those in the Indian Army who perished in the First World War.

Finally we have the Jama Masjid (below left) in Old Delhi, built by Shah Jahan when he was the Emperor of the Mughal dynasty. The mosque was almost destroyed by the British in response to the Indian Mutiny of 1857. Before you pop in here to be enthralled by this gorgeous piece of architecture, slip into one of the many eateries in its vicinity. Karim's (right) is one good option.

Suggested length of stay
If you're a big history buff, 4-5 days would be good. Otherwise, 3 days should suffice to feast your eyes on the main sights.

Best time to go
November till early March. Temperatures are cooler and more comfortable unless you prefer to sweat buckets during summer.

Read!
City of Djinns by William Dalrymple
Twilight in Delhi by Ahmed Ali
Delhi Metropolitan by Ranjana Sengupta
City Improbable: An Anthology of Writings on Delhi edited by Khushwant Singh
Delhi by Khushwant Singh