Day trip: San Miguel de Allende

What's special about San Miguel de Allende

Parroquia de San Miguel
Arcangel's facade

Mexicans will tell you it's a "pueblo magico", a magical city/town. There are several across the country, and they're recognised for their cultural, historical or natural richness. And San Miguel de Allende doesn't disappoint. This colonial town has pretty churches, museums, and art galleries. It's also home to a Starbucks coffee joint! 

courtyard at Biblioteca Publica
Municipal Ignacio Ramirez

Brief history
San Miguel de Allende played a vital role in the war of independence from Spain, and its present name derives from Ignacio Allende, a hero of the independence movement. The centre of town retains its old world charm and facade partly due to the government's move to designate it a national monument in 1926 (it's also a UNESCO World Heritage Site). San Miguel de Allende is also home to many art colonies which were developed in the 1950s. That aside, don't be surprised if you see many Americans here. A lot of them have lived here for some time, drawn by the art colonies or while escaping a polio scare in the US after the Second World War. 

See/do

- Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel, one of the town's main draws, its claim to fame is the pink granite used for its construction

dome of the church next to Centro
Cultural Ignacio Ramirez El Nigromante

- one of the town's many art institutes, such as Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramirez El Nigromante 

- El Mirador, for the panorama

- Museo Casa Ignacio Allende, home of the independence hero

Getting around

Walk. It's the best way to explore this little gem. :)

Getting there and away

I came across one guide (or was it Wikitravel?) which claimed San Miguel de Allende is quite challenging to reach by bus. Nothing could be further from the truth. There are regular buses from Guanajuato and connections to Mexico City and other nearby cities as well. I did my trip from Guanajuato (about 1-1.5 hours), which is probably the easiest option. 

view from the Mirador

From the bus terminal to the city centre: 

courtyard at Starbucks

Right outside the main bus terminal (Omnibus de Mexico, along Calzada de la Estacion), a minibus (ruta 1) takes you to the historic centre and drops you off outside the Pero Neri church. This is the same spot where you'll get ruta 1 to return to the bus terminal. Give it at least 30-40 minutes on the way back though. While the buses move slowly because of the cobbled streets, they may (as the one I was on did) make a long pause at one of the bus stops. I even contemplated getting off to walk the rest of the way. Note too that this minibus doesn't take you into the bus terminal per se. Sit on the left side of the bus if you can, and keep a look out for the bus terminal when you're back on Calzada de la Estacion. 

16 days in Uzbekistan

Long overdue post on my solo September/October trip to Uzbekistan. Here are the details: 
Day 1: arrive in Tashkent at 1935hrs (from Beijing)

Day 2: Tashkent

Day 3: train to Samarkand (high-speed rail which took just 2 hours)

Day 4: Samarkand

Samarkand's famed Registan 

Day 5: train to Bukhara (took about 6 hours)

Day 6: Bukhara

Day 7: Bukhara

Day 8: morning shared taxi to Nukus, with a change at Beruni (all in all about 8 hours)

the lone mulberry tree in the courtyard
of Kalon Mosque, Bukhara

Day 9: day trip to Moynaq; Savitsky Museum, a bit of a walk around Nukus

Day 10: shared taxi to Khiva via Urgench (approximately 3 hours)

Day 11: Khiva

Day 12: Khiva

Day 13: Khiva; night flight to Tashkent (Uzbekistan Airways)

Day 14: Tashkent

Day 15: Tashkent

Day 16: Tashkent; flew out at night

Samarkand: 2 nights felt just about right. There are a few places to see in the city.

Bukhara: 2 nights here are good too. It helps that your entrance ticket for a number of sites are good for at least 2 days (ditto Khiva).

Khiva: spend a night here if you don't want to linger too long. Or two nights, provided you leave in the morning.

Tashkent: some interesting architecture (look out for the rocket-looking Banking Association building near Navoiy Park).

Some things to take note of

Amir Temur Maydoni as seen from
Hotel Uzbekistan, Tashkent

Visa: I'm not sure who won't need a visa to Uzbekistan. It's neighbours and Russia perhaps? :) but depending on which country you come from, you might/not need a letter of invitation before the embassy will process your request. This you can arrange from travel companies such as advantour.com or arostr.com

Flying in: plenty of airlines can get you to Tashkent/Urgench, e.g. Uzbekistan Airways, Aeroflot, Asiana, China Southern, Air Astana

ceiling work at Tosh Hovli, Khiva

To/from the airport: taxis are available though you're going to have to haggle before you get into one. I paid 2USD (about 10,000 som on the black market at the time of my visit) for my ride into the city which is about 4-5 km away. Buses and marshrutkas are available right outside once you manage to walk past the many cabbies waiting to pounce on you (ok not quite). Their routes are marked out on a board at the respective bus stops. Note that they operate only till around 10.30pm. If in doubt, ask someone.

Travelling around Tashkent: the city has a pretty good metro system. get a token (1,000 som) at the kassa office. do note that you'll be stopped for bag checks before you're allowed on the platform. Once there, don't even try to take photos. apart from the metro, there are taxis, buses and marshrutkas.

a mausoleum at Shah-i-Zinda,
a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Inter-city travel: trains are clean and reliable. Tashkent's railway station connects you with most parts of the country. There are buses too but I was told not to bother. Shared taxis are another option, but you'd have to wait till the car is filled to capacity before the driver decides to push off. Flights are available too, which you can book on sites like expedia.com.

panoramic view of Khiva

Money: you'll pay for virtually everything in the local currency (soms). You can exchange them from the airport. Problem is, the rate isn't particularly attractive, especially since the black market rate could get you double or more (even if it's illegal to do this). However, refrain from changing from your taxi driver. Pay him in USD (they're usually willing to accept this). Do your exchange at your hotel/guesthouse, or ask them where you can get the black market rate. Then again, you might just find the dealer coming to you instead. Do check to make sure you're getting the right amount. It's not uncommon (especially if you fall into the trap of changing money from cabbies) to find yourself with less than what was agreed, or your stack of notes interspersed with smaller denominations. 

if you have a camera, you're going to make instant friends

Dressing: Uzbekistan may be a Muslim country but it's secular to a fault. Having said that, don't be mistaken into thinking that walking around in a pair of tiny shorts will be ok. To be safe, stick to T-shirts/blouse, jeans/pants, knee-length shorts, or observe how locals dress before toying with the idea of something a little more adventurous.

Ship Cemetery at what was once the Aral Sea, Moynaq

What if I don't know Cyrillic: Most places have signs in Russian and Uzbek, the latter being written in Roman alphabets so you shouldn't feel completely helpless. Having said that, you'll definitely find people who can speak English. Most tourist sites/restaurants/cafes would have signs/menus in English. If eating establishments don't, they'd at least be able to verbally tell you what they have (even if it's in halting English).

How safe is it: I found Uzbekistan to be very safe.

Read!

Inside Central Asia by Dilip Hiro 

The Railway by Hamid Ismailov

Shadow of the Silk Road by Colin Thubron

More images at instagram, @kevusingh

"Iran? Are You Mad?"

Stained-glass windows of Masjed-e Nasir-al-Molk, Shiraz

My trip to Iran was at least 5 years in the making. It was either a case of not finding the right time, worrying about the visa, or having to deal with my mum who vehemently rejected the idea. But as they say, some things are better late than never. This entry hopes to fill information gaps you may still have about this beautiful country.

Is it safe?

Tehran's iconic Azaadi Tower

Often the first question people ask about Iran because of all the negative media attention the country gets. Some colleagues of mine thought I'd lost my marbles when I told them where I was going. But I'd go as far as saying that Iran is as safe as Singapore. People don't bother you because you're a tourist. Instead, they're as curious about you as you are about them. They'd want to know what made you decide to visit Iran, what your experience of their country has been, or if you've run into any trouble. Don't be surprised if you randomly get invited to tea/lunch/chat with locals. I didn't though because I apparently looked Iranian (that's a story in itself, which I'll leave for another blog entry).

Aren't all Iranians fiery-eyed and anti-American/Israeli?

UNESCO-listed Persepolis

Granted, I witnessed two rallies against the US, Israel and Saudi Arabia (for the bombing campaign in Yemen), but these attracted small crowds of about 100 or 200 at most.
Here's another story: the first meal I had at a sandwich joint, I was asked if I'd like Pepsi or some other carbonated drink. It took me a while before I realised I was actually drinking a can of Pepsi (Coke is available too)! Some things, as they say, are worth way more than principles.

Should I really go to Iran? I don't want to be spending money in a country with a regime like that..

Oh don't worry about it. Your government is probably doing that already. Like I said, some things are worth more than principles.

Aren't all the women covered up in burqas?

Courtyard of a traditional house in Kashan

Women in Iran don't don the burqa, they wear chadors (literally tents, though the same word in Hindi and Punjabi means blanket). Then again, not everyone does. You'll see women who conceal their hair under their headscarves, while others show off fringes and part of their crowns. Some forearms are also visible (especially in the big cities like Tehran) and make up and nail polish are not unheard of. Of course, as with any other country, religiosity varies from city to city, town to town. For instance, I saw more women in chadors in Yazd than in Tehran or Esfahan. One of my bus drivers was a woman too.

Speaking of women..
If you're a guy and are introduced to a woman, shake her hand only if she offers it first. The same applies with family members.

Contemporary art exhibition, Tehran

So as a tourist, how much must I cover up?

Women are required to wear a scarf and dress modestly, which means no tank tops, no spaghetti straps, no shorts/skirts. Loose pants and tops would be best, though I saw some Iranian women in relatively tight jeans. If in doubt, go with slightly loose bottoms. Same goes for the tops. Men too have to adhere to some rules: no tank tops, no shorts. T-shirts are fine. In fact, some Iranian men themselves have a thing for wearing tight tees to show off how hard they've worked in the gym.

Dome of Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfolla, Esfahan

OK..but what about getting INTO the country in the first place?

Citizens of most countries can obtain a visa on arrival (for a 2-week stay) unless otherwise stated. The cost depends on where you're coming from. For Singaporeans, it's 60 euros. When you arrive at Imam Khomeini International Airport in Tehran, go to the Foreign Affairs/Visa counter. They might ask you for a visa authorisation code, as I was. I just told them I was applying for a VOA and they gave me a form to fill. Once that's done, go to the bank adjacent to the counter and make payment for your visa. Then you have to go back to the visa counter and hand over your passport, the filled-up form and receipt from the bank. Make sure that you have the name and contact number of the hotel you're staying at. The officer may also ask for a mobile number of someone in Iran. If you don't have a friend in the country, try getting the mobile number of whoever it is you've liaised with for your hotel stay. Oh, and make sure you come with travel insurance. Then again if you don't, there's a counter right across from the visa office for you to make the purchase.

How do I get around?

Golestan Palace, Tehran

Tehran has a modern metro system (4 lines are operational), otherwise you could try haggling for a taxi. Speaking of which, there are two fare systems for cabs -- dar baste (closed door) and na dar baste (open door). The former means you'll have the cab for yourself, the other allows for other passengers heading in a more or less similar direction to share the vehicle with you at a cost of 20,000 rials (about 60 US cents). As for inter-city travel, you can opt for buses, trains or flights. I took buses all over the country and they were really comfortable. I've heard a similar report about the trains.

Can I use my credit/debit cards in Iran?

No. They won't work due to the sanctions imposed on the country. So bring everything you need in cash (USD, Euros or UAE Dirhams). It also means that your bus, train and flight tickets have to be booked in Iran itself, unless you have a friend there who can do it for you before you get there.

How expensive is it?

Tourist sites will set you back by about 3-5 US dollars each, although Lonely Planet's 2012 edition claims otherwise. But if you look Iranian and manage to get a local ticket, you'd pay just about 50 cents per entry.
A latte costs about 2.50-3 US dollars, and lunch at a decent enough restaurant can set you back by at least 5-8 US dollars (depending on what you order). Mineral water is cheap though. So is public transport.

The garden at Naranjestan, Shiraz

Rials or Tomans?
This is something that requires getting used to. The official currency is Rial, but you'll be quoted prices in Tomans. The difference is that Rials have an extra '0' behind (for example, 4,000 Tomans means you'll have to pay 40,000 Rials). Turns out the currency was changed to Rials by Reza Shah over 70 years ago, but Iranians continued being more comfortable and familiar with the Toman. The central bank has plans to revert to the use of Tomans. Until then, it'll be useful to know the difference. It'll save you the embarrassment of thinking your dinner was dirt cheap.

Masjed-e Shah, Esfahan

Staying connected

Most cafes have wifi, so do the hotels. I usually had a pretty good signal. Do note though that Facebook is blocked, and access to Twitter is a bit patchy. If you absolutely must access Facebook, you'll have to do it via a proxy server (ask the locals).
You'll also need to get a local SIM card if you want to make calls/send SMSes (your home networks won't be available in Iran). For this, go to the Imam Khomeini metro station in Tehran and look for the mobile shop/centre. Take a queue number and wait. Don't forget your passport and the address of your hotel. Let the staff know if you need data, and make sure you check that it works before scooting off.

Read!

- The Ayatollah Begs To Differ: The Paradox of Modern Iran by Hooman Majd (highly recommended)

The abandoned village of Kharanaq

- All The Shah's Men by Stephen Kinzer (how the CIA overthrrew a democratically-elected Iranian leader)
- Days of God by James Buchan (details the lead up to the 1979 Revolution)
- Shah of Shahs by Ryszard Kapuscinski (a profile of the last Shah of Iran)
- Poetry by Hafez (They say all Iranian homes have two books at home: one book of poetry by Hafez and the Quran)
- Poetry by Rumi, Sa'di, Khayyam

To the Blue Mountains -- with public transport!

Planning a trip to the Blue Mountains from Sydney, but don't have a set of wheels (or can't drive)? Personally, I was in two minds about making a visit because of the perceived inconvenience. But despite what most people tell you, accessing this site is very easy by public transport (they're just being lazy). But first, a little background.

The Blue Mountains is a mountainous range in New South Wales, Australia. It's close to Sydney, and borders its metropolitan area. According to Wikipedia (and based on what I saw), the Mountains are a dissected plateau carved in sandstock bedrock. They are now a series of ridge lines separated by gorges up to 760 metres deep. One of the region's best-known attractions is The Three Sisters rock formation (left). There's an Aboriginal story behind it which I cannot remember right now. The Blue Mountains is not a particularly high mountain range, but that hasn't stopped countless from making trips here for its majestic scenery. It helps that the region was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the year 2000.


What to see/do

The most popular attraction is Echo Point in the town of Katoomba, a major lookout with amazing views of the Three Sisters and Jamison Valley. It's a good point to start your visit, and there are information panels/displays about the surrounding environment. From here you can set off on one of many, many treks to while away the hours (and days) and check out what nature has to offer you in these parts -- including some gorgeous waterfalls. If you feel you're not fit enough, try the short walks of about a kilometre or so. The more adventurous can of course set off on multi-day treks. Mountain biking opportunities also abound.

In the mountains you'll also find a number of towns including:

Katoomba (right) -- the largest of the lot and main jump-off point for the Mountains. You can shop and fill your tummies in this area known for its hippie and artsy people.
Leura -- this one's right next to Katoomba and more quaint


So how do I get there?

Hop onto the Blue Mountains Line at Sydney's Central Station and get off at Katoomba. The trip should take you around 2 hours. When you exit the station, there's an office for a hop on/hop off service to the mountains. It makes 29 stops across Katoomba and Leura, giving you the flexibility to explore the area comfortably.

the road from Katoomba down to Echo Point;
yes, it's right at the end

Or you could do what I did -- walk from Katoomba station down to Echo Point (the lookout). It's a relatively easy 2-kilometre walk if the weather is pleasant (I walked back to Katoomba after my trek too). If you do intend to walk the whole way, get a map from the hop on/hop off office. It would help a great deal, especially if you don't trust your sense of direction. Or just ask around.

How much time to spend here?

It really depends on you. The Blue Mountains can be done as an easy day trip from Sydney, but keep in mind that the journey to and fro takes about 2 hours each. At the Mountains itself, I trekked for about 3-4 hours before deciding I'd had enough. I was told Sydneysiders do weekend trips here to mountain bike, trek or simply camp out (accommodation options are available in the area of course). So if you want to avoid the crowds, try planning your trip during the week.

Climate

Do note that the temperatures up here can be up to 10 degrees lower than on the coast during the day, and much lower at night, so bringing a jacket along isn't being overly cautious. Oh yes, it does snow sometimes in winter. During my trip there was a bit of a drizzle but it did little to dampen the experience.

Why not Lebanon?

Finally, I've checked Lebanon off my list! The desire to go took several flips and backflips in no small part due to the cost of flying and the security situation in the country. I have to admit I was apprehensive as the date to fly drew near, no thanks to the conflict in neighbouring Syria. But my fears were unfounded, and, as some have pointed out, I'm back in Singapore in one piece. In any case, I believe that if something has to happen, it could happen anywhere.

So here, ladies and gentlemen, is what I did during my eight glorious days in this gorgeous country.

On my feet

Urbanista, a cool cafe in Gemmayzeh

Beirut is actually pretty walkable, especially if you quickly learn how to cross the roads. I explored on foot the districts of Gemmayzeh and Mar Mikhael. There are plenty of bars, cafes and eateries in these areas. Some art galleries (e.g. Plan Bey) also dot the long strip of road that stretches from Gouraud to Armenia Streets.

Downtown Beirut: you'll find here Al-Amin, the blue-domed mosque near the Place des Martyrs which has four 65-metre-tall minarets. The mosque also has a beautifully decorated ceiling (below, left). By the way, slain former prime minister Rafic Hariri is buried here. Right next door is the St George Maronite Cathedral. No photos are allowed in here.


A stone's throw away is Place de l'Etoile where you'll find more restaurants, cafes, souvenir shops, and an iconic 1930s clock tower with its four-faced Rolex clock. It was a gift from a Lebanese-Brazilian emigre. The area is also home to the parliament building, two cathedrals and a museum.

A little further north from here is Beirut Souks -- a mega shopping area home to some 200 shops, some of which require substantially deep pockets. There's also a very good bookstore if you're interested (Librairie Antoine).

I tried reaching the nearby Grand Serail, which is a majestic Ottoman building now housing government offices, but was turned away by several police cordons. They've stepped up security in the area, possibly following the assassination of a former minister in December 2013. What you can do, however, is to walk further northwest of Beirut Souks to Zaitunay Bay. Take a stroll along this waterfront promenade, which is home to several yachts, and some high-end cafes and restaurants. Until around 10 years ago, this part of Beirut was quite dead. It's still relatively quiet, which is quite something for a city whose soundtrack is dominated by honking cars.

Continuing west past Zaitunay Bay will eventually take you to the Corniche, a favourite spot for Beirutis. Grab a cup of coffee and people watch, or if you prefer, look out to sea, the shoreline of coastal Lebanon (it's nicer at night when the homes on the hills are lit up), or count the number of planes that glide overhead as they get ready to land at the Rafic Hariri International Airport in the south of Beirut.

In West Beirut, you'll find Raouche, Hamra and Ras Beirut. Raouche is where you'll find Pigeon Rocks, Beirut's famous natural offshore arches. Hamra and Ras Beirut are the university districts of the city and are filled with hotels, bars, cafes, restaurants, and shops. It's the preferred base for most travellers and is also home of the American University of Beirut (right). I managed to get a walking tour of the campus thanks to a Singaporean I met during my trip. There's a museum here which houses archaeological artefacts.

Also, look out for street art all over the city. Some of it is very good.

Organised Tours
I signed up for three day-trips with Nakhal Tours:

A walk through the Cedars

Sidon-Tyre-Maghdouche (in the south)
Cedars-Bcharre-Khozaya (in the north)
Baalbek-Aanjar-Ksara Winery (north/east)

Aanjar, Baalbek, the Qadisha Valley and Tyre are all listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Aanjar has the best preserved Islamic archaeological site in Lebanon, while the temples in Baalbek, have been said to be better maintained than the 'stones' in Rome and Athens.

As for Nakhal, their tour rates cover transportation (pick up and drop off at your hotel), an English speaking guide (they were very good) entrance fees, lunch and taxes.

Tyre's hippodrome, the second
largest in the world

Here's a further endorsement: I accidentally left my wallet in one of the tour buses one evening and after frantic calls to the tour agency, had it delivered to me the same day (the fact that I made a complete fool of myself is something else altogether).

Independent tours

The following are day trips I made on my own from Beirut. These too were day trips (except Byblos and Harissa, which were done together).

Byblos: the medieval port city of Byblos has a charming souk, ruins, and a line of restaurants along the harbour (left). The ruins go back to as far as the 3rd millennium BC and some of what you'll see is from the 12th century, particularly the restored Crusader Castle. There are great views from the city ramparts, especially during sundown. You don't necessarily need a guide here because information boards are present throughout the site for you to make sense of the complex. There's also the nearby Church of St John the Baptist, which marries Arab and Italian designs, sprinkled with remains of Byzantine mosaics.

Harissa: Not only is it home to the Basilica of Our Lady of Lebanon, the mountain town of Harissa also provides spectacular views of Jounieh Bay down below. You can drive up or reach the top by cable car.

How did I get there?: I was lucky to be driven to these sites by a friend I got to know via Couchsurfing.

The remains of the Great Palace at Aanjar

Jeita Grotto: This is one of Lebanon's greatest natural wonders and a huge tourist attraction. Personally, it didn't do very much for me because I'd been to a similar cave in Halong Bay. But I suppose the size of the upper grotto is something else altogether. There's also a lower grotto where you can explore the cave in a short boat ride. Note though that photography is not allowed. I'm guessing it's because flash lights will damage the stalactite and stalagmite crystals. So do the right thing and leave your cameras/phones/devices in lockers at the entrance of each cave.

How did I get there?: The onward journey was made by taxi from Beirut via a contact I had gotten to know. Getting out of Jeita wasn't very difficult either. Taxis usually wait at the main entrance and can take you to the main highway (10USD) where you can hop onto a bus (1,500LL) that takes you to the Doura bus station in Beirut. From Doura, you can hail a servis/taxi for your onward journey. Alternatively, you could get a cab from Jeita to Harissa or some other destination at an agreed price.

Beiteddine: This village is home to the 19th-century Beiteddine (bait-uh-deen) Palace, which sits majestically at the edge of a hill surrounded by terraced gardens and orchards. After you pass the main gate, you will see a three-walled courtyard (above); the fourth side provides great views of the hills and valleys. In the forner stables on the ground floor as you walk into the palace, you'll find a lovely collection of Byzantine mosaics dating from the 5th and 6th centuries AD. A double staircase from the outer courtyard will lead you to the Palace proper. Pack a lunch basket or sandwich when you visit,

Baalbek's famous six columns; the two
people on the lower plinth give you a sense
of the scale of the pillars

How did I get there?: So I thought I should be able to travel to the palace on my own from the Cola transport hub, based on what the guide book said. I was on a bus that would drop me where I needed to go; I didn't know that I'd have to take a taxi from a drop-off point to access the site a couple of kilometres away. Thankfully the driver signalled the stop to me, after I had gone on an extra 45 minute ride with him through some random villages. The return trip to the drop-off point was a 20 minute walk along the road because I could not get any taxi/bus from Beiteddine. If you're thinking of visiting the palace, my suggestion is to get the bus driver to inform you where you have to get off, if indeed you're planning to take the bus. But if you don't fancy getting 'lost' the way I did, arrange for a taxi from Beirut. It will cost you more but at least you'd be assured of the return trip. Note too that there are no buses back to Beirut once the sun goes down.

Before you go...

Zaitunay Bay in downtown Beirut

Safety: Contrary to the bad press from the media, Lebanon is pretty safe. The only time I had trouble was when I took a photograph of a building I wasn't apparently allowed to (a police officer came over and demanded I delete the photographs). Having said that, do keep track of the developments in the country. The Daily Star is a good resource, and you can download the app on your smartphone for updates. Also, avoid South Beirut (a Hezbollah stronghold which has nothing much for tourists anyway) -- although I was told it is generally safe as well.

Currency: Bring in US dollars. Virtually everyone accepts them but you'll receive Lebanese Pounds (LL) as change. Most places would stick to a standard rate so don't worry about making any losses (at the time of my visit, 1USD got you LL1,500).

Getting Around: There are three forms of public transport in Lebanon: buses, 'service' taxis and private taxis. Buses within Beirut should cost around LL1,000. Service taxis mean the driver can stop and pick up other passengers along the way. Here you'll pay LL2,000 (however if you're planning to go from one end of Beirut to the other on servis, be prepared to pay more). Ask before you get in if it's a service or taxi. Private taxis require price negotiation before you hop in, and you'll be the only passenger(s). And oh, the cabs (both service and taxis) can be identified by their red number plates. I add this here because the vehicles come in a wide range of models (from a Toyota to an old school Mercedes Benz).

If you need to call for a cab, try Geryes. They're available 24-hours and offer pretty good rates. These guys do airport transfers, take you around Beirut, and can arrange for rides to other parts of the country as well. These are their contact details:

+9613222600 (mobile)
+9611206000
+9611206666
Email: GeryesTaxi@yahoo.com

Your passport: Carry it with you everywhere you go, especially if you're taking day trips out of Beirut. You pass checkpoints when you enter/leave each governate in the country and the police/military may want to check your papers. And yes, don't take pictures of the personnel or the checkpoints. It's not worth the unnecessary trouble.

Night life: It might come as a surprise but the Lebanese capital is known as one of the coolest cities in the Middle East. Walk the streets of downtown Beirut and you'll more likely than not find Beirutis fancily dressed, more so when they're out partying (did I mention the flashy cars that they make their entrance in?). You won't find a dearth of bars to get your fix -- from holes in the wall in Gemmayzeh/Mar Mikhael, to establishments in downtown Beirut. Of course, dancing is optional because, hey, the point is to pout your lips, see and be seen!

Getting there and away: Beirut is the only point of entry if you're flying in, and here's a short list of airlines that will get you there:

Middle East Airlines (national flag-carrier of Lebanon)
flydubai
Emirates
Qatar Airways
Lufthansa
Etihad Airways
Egypt Air
Air France
British Airways

Getting in by land is pretty much impossible because of the conflict in Syria. And don't even think about crossing the border from Israel. Speaking of which, if there's any indication that you've visited Israel, you'll be denied entry into Lebanon. Same goes for some other Middle East countries so do your homework before you embark on your journey.

Visa: Most foreigners can get visa on arrival at the airport. If you're Singaporean, just show up with your passport.

Read!
On the politics of Lebanon and the region, Beware of Small States by David Hirst seemed to me a good resource.
Lebanese/Arab authors:
Kahlil Gibran's The Prophet (the tour to the Cedars/Bcharre/Khozaya takes you to his museum)
Amin Maalouf (Samarkand is my favourite so far)
Elias Khoury (I tried Yalo but gave up)
Rabih Alameddine (An Unnecessary Woman)
Anthony Shadid's House of Stone: A Memoir of Home, Family, and a Lost Middle East

Watch
Incendies (2010)
Where Do We Go Now? (2011)

If you need more info, don't hesitate to ask. For more of my images from Lebanon, I'm on instagram: @kevusingh

Coastal Croatia

To be completely honest, I used to think the old-school tourism commercial for Croatia that I used to chance upon on the BBC was cheesy. The ad claimed Croatia is 'the Mediterranean as it once was'. Really!

In Trogir

Yet there was something that drew me to this country. Maybe it was its name, or that a friend had been there before and raved about it. Or it was simply the fact that a routine scan of airfares on some airlines' websites made it possible to visit this country by the Adriatic Sea.

Whatever the reason, I found myself along the Croatian coast in April 2012 as part of a broader trip to the region. My trip took place during the low season but that did not really dampen the experience. If anything, I was to find out that it made for easier access and navigation. The only downside to it was that I did not get to visit the islands for which the country is famous, and this was because of the lower frequency of boat rides to and from such places like Hvar and Krk (and more importantly, my refusal to zip from one place to the next with what little time I had). Having said that, the cities boast some postcard-pretty sights and winding alleys that should keep you busy for a few hours, if not full day trips.

Zadar

Filmmaker Alfred Hitchcock was on holiday here once and described the sunset he saw in the horizon as the most beautiful in the world. It is a claim that was echoed by some locals I spoke to, and I must say they're not very far off from the truth. Of course it's quite another matter if you consider people who wax lyrical over sunsets pathetic. In which case, you might want to check out one of the following:

Sunset as seen from Zadar

St Donat's Church (above, right): one of the best preserved pre-Roman buildings in the world.
Sea Organ (below, right): This man-made organ works with the motion of the waves and 35 pipes to create a musical soundscape. Sounded like a whale singing to me.

Museum of Ancient Glass: This museum has what's been described as the most outstanding exhibits and the greatest collection of ancient glass in this part of Europe.

Sibenik

Sibenik as seen from
St Michael's Fortress

Cathedral of St James (right)
in Trg Republike Hrvatske

This medieval city is often bypassed for its more famous neighbours, but Sibenik is lovely in its own right. You'll find steep backstreets and ancient chapels compactly packed in this part of northern Dalmatia. There's also the Cathedral of St James, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, whose most unusual feature is the frieze of 71 heads on the exterior walls of the apses. They may look like caricatures but are actual depictions of people from the 15th century (left). Apparently the cathedral cost quite a bomb, and it's said that the stingier the donor, the gross their caricature!

Sibenik is also home to the St Michael Fortress, which offers fantastic views over the city, the Krk River and the Adriatic Sea (click! click!). Parts of the structure date back to the 13th century.

North of Sibenik is the Krka National Park, similar to the Plitvička  Lakes National Park. The one in Krka offers you breathtaking scenery of waterfalls and all else nature has to offer. Some historical and archaeological remains can also be found here.

Trogir

a street in Trogir

The showcase of Trogir:
Cathedral of St Lovro

Tiny Trogir is on the UNESCO World Heritage List as one of the best preserved medieval towns in Europe. The medieval core is surrounded by walls and comprises a preserved castle and tower and a series of homes and palaces. These are from the Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque periods. The most important sites include the 15th century Fortress Kamerlengo. It hosts concerts during the Trogir Summer festival.

Split

The bell tower in
central Split

Reading at the foot of
St Duje's Cathedral, Split

Split is in Central Dalmatia. It was originally built around the Diocletian palace where locals sought refuse centuries ago. Within this UNESCO World Heritage Site you'll find the Cathedral of St Domnius and its iconic belltower (left), a couple of museums, Roman walls and temples. 

Split harbour

Split is also famous for housing the Galerija Meštrović, which displays the works of the Croatian sculptor. I did not get to see it though because the gallery was closed at the time of my visit. There's another such museum in Zagreb. 

view of the Old Town and Lokrum Island
from the City Walls

Dubrovnik

The Old Town as seen from
my guesthouse

Then there's Dubrovnik, images of which are splashed virtually everywhere that Croatia is advertised. The city is marble streets, baroque buildings, and an endless stream of tourists frantically freezing virtually every inch of the Old Town in their cameras.

A dwelling in one of the
streets in the Old Town

The entire area is closed off to cars and surrounded by thick defence walls. You can walk around the walls for a fee (the main entrance and ticket office is by the Pile Gate, but you can also make the ascend from Ploce Gate in the east). I went at around opening time and had the walls mostly to myself. I finished the walk in about an hour, but I suppose if you go during a busier period, especially in summer, it may well take a much longer time. Stroll, too, along the main street, Placa, or as it's commonly known, Stradun, the Old Town's pedestrian promenade. I was told that in summer it becomes very difficult to walk down this stretch without being elbowed or rubbed against someone else.

Cavtat's promenade

Dubrovnik was the target of bombardment during the Yugoslav Wars of the 1990s, and if you'd like to get a sense of this slice of history, take a peek at War Photo Limited , a photo gallery curated by a photojournalist who worked in the region in the 1990s. Note though that the gallery is closed between November and April.

the harbour at
Cavtat

If the crowds of Dubrovnik get too much for you, hop on a bus and head down to Cavtat, which is a lot less touristy. This little town oozes charm and grace. In terms of sights, there are the baroque St Nicholas Church and the birth house of Vlaho Bukovac, Cavtat's most famous son, at the northern end of Obala Ante Starcevica.

Getting around

The coast is well-connected by buses (and ferries) which leave for each destination mentioned here almost hourly. You can also get buses from these cities to other parts of Croatia (including the capital Zagreb) and neighbouring destinations like Mostar in Bosnia-Hercegovina (from Split and Dubrovnik). There are airports in Split, Dubrovnik and Zadar. The cities are also served by trains though buses are a better bet.

The cities are also good jump off points for some of Croatia's famed islands. These include:

Between us

Pag and Kornati from Zadar
Hvar, Brać and Vis from Split
Mljet, Korćula and Lokrum from Dubrovnik

Best time to visit

Summer is where all the action is! But if you prefer it to be less crowded, visit during the shoulder months (April, Oct, Nov).

How many days

Dubrovnik, Split and Zadar can keep you occupied for a day. I'd suggest spending at least a night as well. I'd set aside 2-3 days each in Split and Dubrovnik which was a bit too much, which is why I made trips to Sibenik, Trogir and Cavtat. I spent on average half a day in each place but it ultimately depends on your individual preference.