Destination Zagreb

 

panoramic shot of the Upper Town (Kaptol area) 



Think Croatia and almost instantly, the image that comes to mind is that of islands and the coast. Mention 'Zagreb' and chances are you'd get someone scratching his/her head wondering why anyone would go there (that is, if they even know where it is). But having been there twice, I'm happy to report that the Croatian capital has its own share of things to see. For instance, Zagreb has some fine museums, with several of them located in Gornji Grad (Upper Town). The following are some of the ones I personally liked:

Museum of Broken Relationships (Ćirilometodska ulica 2): People drift away after relationships end, but what about the things that bound them together--letters, gifts, etc? This museum is a mausoleum to love lost. Some have funny stories attached to them, others lean toward insanity, and then there are a few which might just break your heart. This museum was the winner of the Kenneth Hudson Award 2011 for the most innovative museum in Europe, and I highly recommend it.

Meštrović Atelier (Mletačka 8): The former home of Ivan Meštrović now houses about a hundred of his sculptures, drawings, lithographs and furniture over three levels. A similar museum is located in Split, and his works are also to be found in parts of the former Yugoslavia.

Museum Mimara (Roosveltov Trg 5): Here lies the diverse private art collection of Ante Topić Mimara. He donated over 3,750 objects to the city of Zagreb even though he spent much of his life in Salzburg, Austria.

Other attractions

St Mark's Church (left): This 13th century structure is Zagreb's most emblematic building. As you walk towards the church from the direction of the Museum of Broken Relationships along Ćirilometodska ulica, you'll see the church's colourfully-tiled roof. They make out the coat of Zagreb and Triune Kingdom of Croatia, Slavonia and Dalmatia. 

Dolac Market (below): This place has been heaving with activity since the 1930s and traders from all over Croatia come here to sell their products. Snoop around for locally produced honey, handmade ornaments, and delicious food. 

Old Town Gate, at the top of Radićeva street (Upper Town): It is now a shrine to the Virgin Mary. You can light a candle here and (locals believe) your wish will be granted. But do remember to maintain silence, even if you're only passing through.

Trg Josipa Jelačića (right): This is Zagreb's main square and a common meeting point. Being part of the pedestrian zone, it is mostly inaccessible by car but most tram lines through the city stop here. The square also features the equestrian statue of ban Josipa Jelačić. It commemorates his battle against Hungary in the Revolution of 1848.




part of the fountain outside the Cathedral

 Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (left) at Kaptol Square: Coming from the airport, the twin spires come into view even before you reach the city centre. Construction began in the 13th century and the structure underwent reconstruction in the neo-Gothic style around the turn of the 20th century following an earthquake in 1880. Do remember to dress appropriately if you want to enter.
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Zagreb's Green Horseshoe: If you look at a map of the Lower Town, you'll notice a green U-shape extending from the Croatian National Theatre from one side, to the Gallery of Modern Art and Archaeological Museum on the other. This green space was the brainchild of an urban thinker by the name of Lenuci at the end of the 19th century. It takes in several squares in the city (including Trg Maršala Tita and Trg Kralja Tomislava). Along the way you'll pass gorgeous Art Nouveau buildings, the Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters and the iconic Regent Esplanade Hotel (above), which was built next to the train station in 1924 to welcome the Orient Express crowd in style.



a stretch of the Green horseshoe along
Trg Kralja Tomislava

 Getting In
Air: You have Croatia Airlines which flies you to major European cities such as Amsterdam, Paris and London, Qatar Airways to international destinations via Doha and Turkish Airlines via Istanbul. Air France and Lufthansa also have flights from Paris and Frankfurt respectively.

Train: Connections include neighbouring cities such as Ljubljana and Belgrade, and other major points in Europe including Zurich, Munich and Vienna. 

Bus: By far the most reliable if you're travelling around the region to cities such as Sarajevo, Belgrade and parts of the Croatian coast.

When to go
I went in March and April, but if you don't like spring (or a period when winter hijacks the season as happened during my 2013 trip), I suppose a better bet would be going between late May and early October. High season is between June and September.

How many days
Depending on what you'd like to see, really. If you're a museum junkie, 4-5 days would be good. The same duration would be good if you'd prefer to do day trip(s) out of Zagreb. Otherwise, I'd say 3 full days if you decide to pick and choose.

Currency
Croatia uses the 'kuna' (Kn). The country will join the European Union in July 2013, but there won't be a change to its monetary unit (yet).

Read!
Nobody's Home by Dubravka Ugrešić
Trieste by Daša Drndić

Delightful Istanbul

The name itself conjures images of the exotic, of the East meeting the West. But Istanbul turned out to be more than just a confluence of these two spheres as I was to find out in September 2010. At some point it gives you a sense of belonging, yet being apart from the two, to anchor itself onto an identity all of its own.

Things to do/Places to see (most of which are on the European side)



Inside the library at Topkapı Palace



Visit the Dolmabahçe Palace (above right) in the Beşiktaş district. You'll need to join a guided tour to explore the grounds. Note that photography in the premises is not allowed. Once you're done here, walk along Dolmabahçe Caddesi (to the right of the Palace) up towards Ortaköy. On the jetty of Ortaköy sits the neo-baroque style Ortaköy Mosque. It borders the waters of the Bosphorus and makes for a good photograph against the backdrop of the Bosphorus Bridge. There's also a Sunday flea market around here.

Another palace worth visiting (and in my opinion, a must) is Topkapı Palace (above left). It was the primary residence of the Ottomans Sultans after they moved from Dolmabahçe Palace. Allow at least 3 hours here.

Head to Istiklal Caddesi/Taksim where those who want to see and be seen strut their stuff. This pedestrian street is filled with eateries, cafes, booshops and several boutiques.

Visit one of Istanbul's many museums. I went to the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum and Istanbul Archaeology Museum. The former has a sizable collection of, among other things, carpets and copies of the Quran. But if you prefer to be overwhelmed by the weight of history, pick the latter which has three wings. Among the most famous pieces of ancient art you'll find here is the Alexander Sarcophagus, once believed to be prepared for Alexander the Great.

I suppose a visit to Istanbul wouldn't be complete without going to the Sultanahmet Mosque (better known as the Blue Mosque). It incorporates some Byzantine elements with traditional Islamic architecture. Do note that the mosque is closed to visitors during prayer time and women are required to cover their heads with a scarf. Next door is Hagia Sophia (left) which some consider to be architecturally more superior to the Blue Mosque, largely because the latter's domes are supported by elephantine pillars.

Go up the 66.9 metre Galata Tower (right) for gorgeous views of the city. Note though that it can get pretty crowded up there and there's enough space for traffic in each direction.

Take a cruise along the Bosphorus (left) for a different look at the city. There are cruises of several durations, with some of them stopping along the northern parts of the river. I took one that cost 10 TL; it was a shorter ride and a good option for those who may get seasick or simply bored.

Bite into a fish sandwich at Eminönü, on the waterfront by the ferry docks. Choose from one of several vendors here. Mind the bones though.

Shop till you get sick of it (if that's possible) at the Grand Bazaar. There are 3,000 shops lined along 61 covered streets. We went in thinking we'd hang around for 4 hours or so. We got out in less than one. The other bazaar to check out is Spice Bazaar near the Yeni Mosque where you'll find, well, spices, and lots of traditional Turkish sweets. Give yourself a sugar rush with pieces of baklava from one of the shops in the Spice Bazaar. For the best Turkish delights (or lokum), make a beeline for Hacı Bekir at Hamidiye Caddesi 83. These guys know their stuff -- they've been churning out the sweet goodies since the 19th century.
Some of the restaurants in the Sultanahmet area stage performances by Whirling Dervishes. Naturally, these are targeted at tourists. Walk around to pick one with the price that suits your pocket.

Check out Basilica Cistern (left) which is the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that lie beneath the city. It's across the street from Hagia Sophia and the tram line.

Slip away from the main streets and wander around some of Istanbul's neighbourhoods, such as Cihangir. It has many narrow streets, a park and street cafes. The area is quite the fashionable spot for the creative types. Cihangir is located Taksim Square and Kabataş. 


Coffee and pieces of chocolate at Coffee To Go
 at the foot of Istiklal Caddesi



Princes' Islands: Set in the Marmara Sea off Istanbul's Asian shore. They are popular destinations for day trips from Istanbul. There is no traffic here, and you'll have to get around on horse carriages. Ferries leave from both the European and Asian sides of Istanbul.

Süleymaniye Mosque: the largest one in the city, it was closed for renovations at the time of my visit.

Get a scrub in a hamam (Turkish bath). There is at least one in each neighbourhood. Sultanahmet has many historical hamams. Some are very extravagant and cater mainly to tourists.

Duration of my stay

8 days

Recommended

4-5 (if you want to get a decent feel of the city without having to linger for too long)

Currency

Turkish Lira though hotels (charge in and) accept Euros

Getting In

Several airlines fly into Istanbul including Qatar Airways, Emirates, Turkish Airlines, Thai Airways, Lufthansa and Air France.

Alternatively, you could take a train into Istanbul from cities such as Belgrade, Sofia and Bucharest.

In the city of "Before Sunrise"

Soon after returning from my trip, I remember watching "Before Sunrise" (starring Julie Delpy and Ethan Hawke) again just to catch glimpses of the places the characters left their footprints. 'I was there too!', I exclaimed to whoever was watching the film with me. Maybe it's just me, but there is something about seeing images of the same spots you've visited on the big (or small) screen. Strange as it may sound, for me there is a sense of childlike pride for having been there, having seen the city. The image on the screen affirms the city/town's worth and beauty which your own words may not convey. Then again, maybe it's your own images that make people sit up and pay attention to a city/town they would have otherwise not thought of as a travel destination. Here then are some of my own images of the Austrian capital. Hopefully they inspire you too. :)

Start off in the west of the historic city-centre where you will find the Schönbrunn Palace (left). It is the former imperial summer residence of the Habsburgs and has just over 1,440 rooms. Of these, 40 rooms are open to the public. Audio guides are provided for a more comprehensive tour. Before or after you wander in the rooms, take a stroll around the gardens and walk up to the Gloriette, a structure that houses a cafe and offers generous views of the city. In the historic district itself, you can wander around the Hofburg Palace. The area here has been the documented seat of government since 1279 for various empires (including the Austro-Hungarian) and republics. It now serves as the residence of the President of Austria.

Walking around the many parks in the city centre might bring you face-to-face with this statue on the left. That's

The conductor expects some level of audience participation too

Mozart in Burggarten. Loitering around here you should find a couple of modern day 'Mozarts' selling tickets to classical concerts. I paid 42 euros for my ticket (in June 2011) and it was quite worth the price. The best part is that you don't have to be fancily dressed for the event because it caters specifically to tourists. So go on, let your ears feel music as it once was.

View from Leopold



Vienna is also home to many museums (the lady at the hostel told me there are at least 100). Chief among them is the MuseumsQuartier in the historic city-centre, where you will find the Leopold Museum (showcases the works of Egon Schiele and Gustav Klimt) and Museum of Modern Art (or MUMOK, which was closed at the time of my visit). Only if you're into architecture should you venture into Architecture Center Vienna (Architekturzentrum Wien). Don't get me wrong, it's not entirely technical; it's a one-room exhibition space detailing what went into the planning of the city. Away from MuseumsQuartier, other art spaces include the Belvedere (above left). There is also the Wien Musuem at Karlsplatz which traces the history of the city.  

Hang around Resselpark after you're done at Wien Museum; have a simple lunch of kebab or sandwiches (there are several stands around the city) here if you'd like. Sit in front of the pond facing Karlskirche, or St Charles Church, or one of the benches in the park. Here are two pictures of the church, at different times of day (left and right).  

Speaking of churches, a visit to Vienna won't be complete without a visit to St Stephen's (Stephansdom) at Stefansplatz. A church has stood on this site since the 12th century but little remains of the original structure. You could buy a ticket at the South Tower to climb it for spectacular views of Vienna (below left). I recommend it -- there are only 343 steps to overcome, plus it's a good cardio workout. :) 

The area around the church is the shopping district in Vienna. Note though that they close by around 7pm on most days. Coming from a city like Singapore, this might seem 'weird', since shops in the island open till much late. But it doesn't take long for you to appreciaet why the Viennese (and perhaps other European cities) do this: the rest of the night allows one to spend time with family and friends. It is, after all, more important than pandering to the whims of consumerism.

A little east of the centre of the city is Leopoldstadt (the 2nd district) where you will find the Prater Park and amusement park. Head for a spin on Praterturm (right). But if hanging in the air is not your idea of fun, try the Riesenrad ferris wheel (bottom left). It was built and erected in 1897. I recently found out that a permit for its demolition was issued in 1916. Fortunately, a lack of funds meant it could not be destroyed (reminiscent of the story of the Eiffel Tower). 

How many days?

Up to 4 full days would be good. More if you want to seriously museum-hop. My friend and I went to 5 during our 4-day trip.

Getting In

I entered Vienna by train from Prague. Train connections are also available from several cities in neighbouring countries. They include Bratislava in Slovakia (just one hour away), the Hungarian capital of Budapest, the German cities of Munich and Switzerland's Zurich.

You could also consider taking a bus in from the Balkans, Greece, Italy and Germany. If you're jetting in, options include Emirates, Qatar Airways, Austrian Airlines, Qantas, British Airways, Air China and Air France.

Budapest

Budapest is divided by the Danube into Buda and Pest. The Castle District is on the Buda side of the city, but the major sites are at Pest.
The city is accessible by several major airlines including Air France and Emirates. I took a train from Vienna though, for about 30 Euros. There are also connections to the Czech Republic, Germany, Italy and Greece.
The city can be seen in 3-4 days, depending on your interests. If museums are your thing, stick around for four days because there are several to visit. Otherwise, three days should do the trick. And here's the best part about the city: it is excellent for sightseeing on foot. So put on some comfy shoes and get started!

The Sights

Castle Hill: feast your eyes on medieval buildings and splendid views over Pest.

The Royal Palace, Hungarian National Gallery and the Budapest History Museum (closed at the time of my visit) are up here (above left). So are Matthias Church (a neo-Gothic structure with a colourful tiled roof and lovely murals) and Fisherman's Bastion. Tickets to both are available at ticket counters across from the entrance to the church. I would recommend skipping Fisherman's Bastion though because you can get pretty decent views of the river and parliament building without even climbing it (above right).

Castle Hill is accessible by furnicular at the foot of the hill across from Chain Bridge, or you could take a leisurely stroll up.

Chain Bridge (left): when you think of Budapest, this bridge should come to mind. At the time of its construction in the 19th century, it was regarded as one of the modern world's engineering wonders. 

Parlament (right): the city’s most iconic building. There are tours here. On the riverbank in front of the building is a sculpture that serves as a memorial to the Jews who were shot and thrown into the Danube in 1944 during the Holocaust.

Great Synagogue (left): You will find a museum with exhibits on the Holocaust, and the Memorial of the Hungarian Jewish Martyrs within the compound. The ticket office sells three tours, one of which includes all of the above. Depending on your guide, you might even get a little walking tour of what used to be the Jewish quarter.

House of Terror (above right): the former headquarters of the secret police, it now serves as a museum and focuses on the crimes and atrocities of the fascist and Stalinist regimes.

Andrássy út: listed on the UNESCO World Heritage Site list, this avenue is home to some fantastic neo-Renaissance buildings. 

Heroes' Square: here you’ll find the Millenary Monument, the Museum of Fine Arts and the Palace of Art. Beyond the Square is the City Park, which provides a lovely respite from a day of sightseeing.

Gellért Hill: walk up here at your own pace and take in the views over the Danube and the city as you do. Check out the statue of St Gellért during your ascent. The bishop had come to Budapest in the 11th century to spread Christianity. But it seems the pagans put him in a barrel and sent him rolling down this hill into the Danube (whatever happened to politely declining the offer?).

Continuing up the hill will take you to the Liberty Monument (left) at the top. The statue was erected as a tribute to Soviet soldiers who died liberating Hungary in 1945. Now it just commemorates those who fought for the freedom of Hungary.

Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel: If you can afford to stay here, great! Otherwise, wander into the lobby and marvel at the gorgeous chandelier that hangs above you. I think Antoni Gaudí would approve of its design.

St Stephen's Basilica (right): It is said that the interior looks more stunning when it's lit up. I took pictures without lighting and still found it to be beautiful. Then again, it is subjective.

Hungarian State Opera House (right): Check with them a day before, or on the day you plan to visit for tour times. Sessions are subject to change at the last minute (don’t say I didn’t warn you).

Váci utca: for your shopping fix. Do note that the Hungarians still use their own currency (forint) despite being part of the European Union. The last time I checked, it seems Hungary will continue using the forint for some time to come.

To read about my own experience with Budapest, click here.

Sarajevo in 3 days

"I view Sarajevo as one city, like a person made up of different parts." - Aziz, in Joshua Irby's
Meeting Miss Irby.

As a smile spread across my face, I shut the book after reading this line and the paragraph that
followed. It summed up exactly how I felt about the city I recently visited.

Of course, most people still think of the city as 'war-torn' and 'dangerous'; but let me assure you
that the most "dangerous" experience for you would be having to answer (countless times, might
I add) a very common question: 'why did you choose to visit Sarajevo?'

The capital of Bosnia-Hercegovina is a lovely little city which one person told me truly deserves
being described as a blend of the East and West, more so than Istanbul. You be the judge. Personally, I loved how the city is small enough to be navigated on foot. And considering the number of cafes and eateries that stick out of virtually every corner, you would not have to worry about being on your feet all day. So here's my suggested itinerary. 

Day 1

Take a walk around Baščaršija, the old town of Sarajevo. Start with Pigeons' Square and Sebilj (below, right), a kiosk-shaped public wooden and stone fountain, and lose yourself in one of the many alleys in the area.

Down from the Sebilj, make a right turn towards the Gazi Husrev-beg buildings which include a mosque. It is considered the most important Islamic structure in the country and one of the world's finest examples of Ottoman architecture. There's also a covered bazaar which offers the usual touristy trinkets in a variety of shops.



Continuing straight down from there would bring you past a string of cafes along Ferhadija, where you will also see reminders of the Austro-Hungarian era. You could also pop into the Catholic Cathedral which dates from the late 19th century.

Not far from here is the Orthodox Cathedral (on the left), which in my opinion, is best viewed at night because it is artfully lit up. What made it even more beautiful for me during my trip in late April 2012 was the falling rain.

Take some steps south from here and you will find yourself in front of the Miljacka River. Look out for a cream-coloured building topped with green domes. This is the Academy of Arts, which is reminiscent of Budapest's national parliament building. There's also the cute Latin Bridge, which gained infamy for being the site where the wheels of the First World War started turning; it was here that a Serbian nationalist assassinated the heir to the throne of the Austro-Hungarian empire (Archduke Franz Ferdinand) in late June 1914. There's a little museum (Sarajevo 1878-1918 Museum) right next to the bridge which showcases photographs from that period.

Continue east of Baščaršija, and walk uphill past Sebilj and the tram stop towards Kovači and beyond. You'll find yourself in front of the Kovači Martyrs' Cemetery where the dead from the 1990s conflict rest. Just beyond here is the Yellow Bastion wherefrom you get lovely views of the city and its surrounding hills. The hills too offer some gorgeous views of Sarajevo, but it's not always advisable to tread those paths because some mines from the war remain.

Day 2

Prepare yourself for something more serious today with a visit to the History Museum. It is largely devoted to the 1990s conflict, and the building itself bears the scars of the war. Some of the photographs are disturbing, and so are some displays on how the Sarajevans survived the 44-month siege. But do look out for an alphabetic guide pinned to one of the walls, and you might just find yourself chuckling at the dark humour with which people possibly tried to keep themselves sane amidst the madness. Wander around the hallways on the ground floor as well, because there might be a temporary exhibition on in one of the rooms. At the time of my visit, there were two photography exhibitions, both dealing with the break-up of the former Yugoslavia. Right behind is the Tito Cafe, which is filled with photographs of Marshal Tito (the late leader of the former Yugoslavia).

I'd also recommend a visit to the Tunnel Museum in Butmir, close to the airport. It tracks the construction of an 800-metre underpass which was literally the lifeline of the city during the siege of the 1990s. The guide books suggest arranging for the trip from the hotel, but I suppose that was taking the four- and five-starrers into consideration. Alternatively, they said, take a tram (number 3 or 5) from the city centre to Ilidža terminus and hop onto a bus.

Simple enough, I thought. But as it turned out, a girl I asked said she did not know how to get there. I looked at my map and decided to walk...it looked pretty close by anyway. Under a sky that looked ready to burst, I put one foot ahead of the next for at least 20 minutes until I reached a crossroad. A lady at a salon nearby knew fully well where I was going from my appearance, and offered directions -- in Bosnian. I continued walking for another 20-30 minutes, past quaint houses and empty streets. Why am I doing this to myself again? I'm happy to report that I eventually found the museum. But my advice is, go with a taxi from Ilidža if you plan to take public transport. Otherwise, stick to the hotel's arrangement.

Day 3

If you haven't had enough of museums, make a trip to the National Museum. It's really quite close to the History Museum but I guess doing both in the same day would be overwhelming. One of the highlights here is the Sarajevo Haggadah, a 14th-century Jewish codex.

The other option is to pay a visit to the Svrzo House at Glodina (north of Baščaršija). It is a restored 18th-century house-museum (right) which has retained its courtyards and overhanging box windows. It may be a little difficult to find but it's worth the trip. The guy who runs the place said he's spoken to the authorities to put signs up to help tourists find the place. But it seems the government isn't allowing it because it wants to do the work. Nothing's transpired yet so if you find yourself scratching your head at some little junction, ask someone. :)

Note: These are not the only things to look out for because there are a number of other mosques and sites strewn around the city; I've only mentioned the ones I think are essential.

Getting InI took an overnight bus from Ljubljana (12 hours), which set me back by 44 Euros. Good thing
is that it saves you the cost of one night's accommodation. Buses are also available from regional
cities such as Zagreb, Split (Croatia) and Belgrade (Serbia). You could also take a train in from
Croatia (Zagreb) and Hungary (Budapest).
Alternatively, fly into Sarajevo with Lufthansa (via Munich), Turkish Airlines (via Istanbul) and
Croatia Airlines.

Money
I'm not sure about the airport but the bus station has no money changing facility. The best option here are the ATMs. Ditto in the city although you will find postal offices offering the service. Note too that the Bosnian Mark is the preferred currency.