Museum of Broken Relationships (Ćirilometodska ulica 2): People drift away after relationships end, but what about the things that bound them together--letters, gifts, etc? This museum is a mausoleum to love lost. Some have funny stories attached to them, others lean toward insanity, and then there are a few which might just break your heart. This museum was the winner of the Kenneth Hudson Award 2011 for the most innovative museum in Europe, and I highly recommend it.
Other attractions
Old Town Gate, at the top of Radićeva street (Upper Town): It is now a shrine to the Virgin Mary. You can light a candle here and (locals believe) your wish will be granted. But do remember to maintain silence, even if you're only passing through.
Trg Josipa Jelačića (right): This is Zagreb's main square and a common meeting point. Being part of the pedestrian zone, it is mostly inaccessible by car but most tram lines through the city stop here. The square also features the equestrian statue of ban Josipa Jelačić. It commemorates his battle against Hungary in the Revolution of 1848.
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (left) at Kaptol Square: Coming from the airport, the twin spires come into view even before you reach the city centre. Construction began in the 13th century and the structure underwent reconstruction in the neo-Gothic style around the turn of the 20th century following an earthquake in 1880. Do remember to dress appropriately if you want to enter.
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Getting In
Air: You have Croatia Airlines which flies you to major European cities such as Amsterdam, Paris and London, Qatar Airways to international destinations via Doha and Turkish Airlines via Istanbul. Air France and Lufthansa also have flights from Paris and Frankfurt respectively.
Train: Connections include neighbouring cities such as Ljubljana and Belgrade, and other major points in Europe including Zurich, Munich and Vienna.
Bus: By far the most reliable if you're travelling around the region to cities such as Sarajevo, Belgrade and parts of the Croatian coast.
When to go
I went in March and April, but if you don't like spring (or a period when winter hijacks the season as happened during my 2013 trip), I suppose a better bet would be going between late May and early October. High season is between June and September.
How many days
Depending on what you'd like to see, really. If you're a museum junkie, 4-5 days would be good. The same duration would be good if you'd prefer to do day trip(s) out of Zagreb. Otherwise, I'd say 3 full days if you decide to pick and choose.
Currency
Croatia uses the 'kuna' (Kn). The country will join the European Union in July 2013, but there won't be a change to its monetary unit (yet).
Read!
Nobody's Home by Dubravka Ugrešić
Trieste by Daša Drndić
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| panoramic shot of the Upper Town (Kaptol area) |
Think Croatia and almost instantly, the image that comes to mind is that of islands and the coast. Mention 'Zagreb' and chances are you'd get someone scratching his/her head wondering why anyone would go there (that is, if they even know where it is). But having been there twice, I'm happy to report that the Croatian capital has its own share of things to see. For instance, Zagreb has some fine museums, with several of them located in Gornji Grad (Upper Town). The following are some of the ones I personally liked:
Museum of Broken Relationships (Ćirilometodska ulica 2): People drift away after relationships end, but what about the things that bound them together--letters, gifts, etc? This museum is a mausoleum to love lost. Some have funny stories attached to them, others lean toward insanity, and then there are a few which might just break your heart. This museum was the winner of the Kenneth Hudson Award 2011 for the most innovative museum in Europe, and I highly recommend it.
Meštrović Atelier (Mletačka 8): The former home of Ivan Meštrović now houses about a hundred of his sculptures, drawings, lithographs and furniture over three levels. A similar museum is located in Split, and his works are also to be found in parts of the former Yugoslavia.
Museum Mimara (Roosveltov Trg 5): Here lies the diverse private art collection of Ante Topić Mimara. He donated over 3,750 objects to the city of Zagreb even though he spent much of his life in Salzburg, Austria.
Other attractions
St Mark's Church (left): This 13th century structure is Zagreb's most emblematic building. As you walk towards the church from the direction of the Museum of Broken Relationships along Ćirilometodska ulica, you'll see the church's colourfully-tiled roof. They make out the coat of Zagreb and Triune Kingdom of Croatia, Slavonia and Dalmatia.
Dolac Market (below): This place has been heaving with activity since the 1930s and traders from all over Croatia come here to sell their products. Snoop around for locally produced honey, handmade ornaments, and delicious food.
Old Town Gate, at the top of Radićeva street (Upper Town): It is now a shrine to the Virgin Mary. You can light a candle here and (locals believe) your wish will be granted. But do remember to maintain silence, even if you're only passing through.
Trg Josipa Jelačića (right): This is Zagreb's main square and a common meeting point. Being part of the pedestrian zone, it is mostly inaccessible by car but most tram lines through the city stop here. The square also features the equestrian statue of ban Josipa Jelačić. It commemorates his battle against Hungary in the Revolution of 1848.
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| part of the fountain outside the Cathedral |
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (left) at Kaptol Square: Coming from the airport, the twin spires come into view even before you reach the city centre. Construction began in the 13th century and the structure underwent reconstruction in the neo-Gothic style around the turn of the 20th century following an earthquake in 1880. Do remember to dress appropriately if you want to enter. \
Zagreb's Green Horseshoe: If you look at a map of the Lower Town, you'll notice a green U-shape extending from the Croatian National Theatre from one side, to the Gallery of Modern Art and Archaeological Museum on the other. This green space was the brainchild of an urban thinker by the name of Lenuci at the end of the 19th century. It takes in several squares in the city (including Trg Maršala Tita and Trg Kralja Tomislava). Along the way you'll pass gorgeous Art Nouveau buildings, the Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters and the iconic Regent Esplanade Hotel (above), which was built next to the train station in 1924 to welcome the Orient Express crowd in style.
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| a stretch of the Green horseshoe along Trg Kralja Tomislava |
Air: You have Croatia Airlines which flies you to major European cities such as Amsterdam, Paris and London, Qatar Airways to international destinations via Doha and Turkish Airlines via Istanbul. Air France and Lufthansa also have flights from Paris and Frankfurt respectively.
Train: Connections include neighbouring cities such as Ljubljana and Belgrade, and other major points in Europe including Zurich, Munich and Vienna.
Bus: By far the most reliable if you're travelling around the region to cities such as Sarajevo, Belgrade and parts of the Croatian coast.
When to go
I went in March and April, but if you don't like spring (or a period when winter hijacks the season as happened during my 2013 trip), I suppose a better bet would be going between late May and early October. High season is between June and September.
How many days
Depending on what you'd like to see, really. If you're a museum junkie, 4-5 days would be good. The same duration would be good if you'd prefer to do day trip(s) out of Zagreb. Otherwise, I'd say 3 full days if you decide to pick and choose.
Currency
Croatia uses the 'kuna' (Kn). The country will join the European Union in July 2013, but there won't be a change to its monetary unit (yet).
Read!
Nobody's Home by Dubravka Ugrešić
Trieste by Daša Drndić
