Sunday 10 June 2012

Whistlestop: Ljubljana

When they say the Slovenian capital of Ljubljana (prono: lyoo-blee-yaa-naa) is small, they kid you not. This capital city (which some Slovenes say is more of a town), can be explored in 2 days. And precisely because it is so compact, it is worth a visit: there are no world-famous sights so you won’t find yourself running around breathlessly just because there are must-sees.

Having said that, however, the city does have some gems. The historic centre boasts a number of buildings that were part of the art nouveau/Secessionist movement. One of the most prominent is the Cooperative Bank along Miklošičeva cesta (right). There’s no way you can miss its geometric folk-patterned façade. The street is also home to the Grand Union hotel, right across from the Bank.

Down the street past the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation on your right, you will find yourself crossing Ljubljana’s famous Triple Bridge (below), which was designed by Jože Plečnik. The Triple Bridge consists of three separate picturesque bridges located next to one another. Turning right after crossing the bridge takes you to an open space where a flea market sets up on weekends, and the Dragon Bridge. Legend has it that Jason and the Argonauts killed a dragon, and one of them is among the four statues on the bridge. Perhaps more fascinating is a local legend, which says that when a virgin crosses the bridge, the dragons will wag their tail (Hmm).


Overlooking the historic city is the Ljubljana Castle, which sits atop a hill and offers
great views all around. When I made my way up to the WatchTower, the sun was
struggling to fend off the rainclouds which, from some distance away, were bullying it into submission. The ticket to the tower includes a visit to the Slovenia History Exhibition, which I thought was fascinating because of the interactive displays. I did not however leave much of an impression at some displays though, because no amount of hand-waving or pressing myself against them launched the videos or lit up the exhibits (you might have better luck).

Ljubljana has many art galleries and museums. For art, the National Gallery sits across from the Museum of Modern Art so you can easily knock yourself out moving from one to the next. As far as museums are concerned, I would recommend the Museum of Contemporary History (left). The pink building, which has a pink/purple tank at its entrance, traces Slovenia’s recent history from the late 19th century till its recent entry into the European Union. The room dedicated to the Second World War is particularly informative because there are television screens which beam accounts of survivors of the war. Once you’re done, take a leisurely stroll through Tivoli Park, Ljubljana’s largest. Join the locals (especially in summer) as they spread out a mat for some cheese and wine or sandwiches and coffee.

Speaking of which, I would recommend Lascicarna café along Stari trg (past the Town Square and Mestni trg). This quaint little place starts off looking like a regular café, but take a few steps in and you’ll find it decorated with a range of sometimes incongruous items: there’s a witch doll that sits just above the door that leads to more seats, and a lovely little fountain with a Romanesque statue. I have to admit though that the free wi-fi was what drew me to the café in the first place.

Once you feel that you’re ready to move on from Ljubljana, hop onto a bus for a day trip to Bled (about an hour and a half away), which is known for its glacial lake. It was raining when I went to this alpine gem, but that did little to ruin the romanticism. In fact, for me, the rain added that much more to the experience. I can only imagine how much more beautiful it would look under a clear sky.

You would notice a small island in the middle of the lake, which is home to the Assumption of Mary Pilgrimage Church. The island has 99 steps, and a local tradition at weddings is for the husband to carry his new bride up. During this time, the bride is to remain silent (I wonder if the groom is allowed to groan under all that weight though). However, some couples prefer to tie the knot up on Bled Castle (right), where a pavilion overlooking the lake serves this function. For regular visitors like you and me, the splendid views from the Castle should suffice.

Getting In
I entered Ljubljana by train from Zagreb. There are connections to regional cities such as Belgrade (Serbia), Budapest (Hungary), and Vienna (Austria).
Flag-carrier Adria Airways connects you to 30 European cities including Istanbul. Other airlines that land in Ljubljana include Air France, eastJet and FinnAir.

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